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Justin Tomlinson
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Nov 26, 2012
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Monrovia, CA
· Joined Apr 2010
· Points: 270
What is the technique that enables you to soft catch someone?
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bearbreeder
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Nov 26, 2012
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Mar 2009
· Points: 3,065
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Caleb Cerling
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Nov 26, 2012
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Boulder, CO
· Joined Mar 2010
· Points: 55
My climbing partner's girlfriend that weighs 50 lbs less than me
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Tradiban
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Nov 26, 2012
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Apr 2004
· Points: 11,610
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PAS
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Nov 26, 2012
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2009
· Points: 20
It has a lot to do with the action you take when you feel the weight of the climber come onto the rope, not the amount of slack in the system. Having said that, the three most popular methods are stepping in, small jump, or remaining neutral. It will mostly depend on the weight difference between climber and belayer. The main goal is always keeping the climber from hitting the ground an/or any obstacles.
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Finn The Human
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Nov 26, 2012
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The Land of Ooo
· Joined Jul 2008
· Points: 106
bearbreeder wrote:http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1844 That article gives a fair explanation. Remember, you don't need a lot of slack in the system to give a dynamic belay.
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bearbreeder
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Nov 27, 2012
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Mar 2009
· Points: 3,065
OldManRiver wrote:i'm a little heavy and was taught to generally stay close to the wall and jump to soften the catch. So far partners - some much lighter - have been happy with the softness. The idea about standing away from the wall and moving quickly towards is seems a little more risky for the belayer than being below the first bolt. but hey, opinions are like assholes. on steep overhang starts, jumping up may not be the best option ... if you do, wear a helmet ;) on trad, standing far away may not be the best option if a zipper is possible ... use that thing between yr ears =P
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Rajiv Ayyangar
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Nov 27, 2012
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San Francisco, CA
· Joined Jun 2010
· Points: 220
Andrew Bisharat's book, Sport Climbing, has an excellent overview. Something that helps me time the jump is keeping a slight bow of slack out with my guide hand, and when I feel it go taut, jump. A really great way to practice is to have a gym leading session where you are not allowed to clip the anchors, which forces you to take and catch lots of falls. Try experimenting (within reason) with slack, and various degrees of jump. If there's enough rope drag (I mean A LOT), it might be necessary to give slack as the only way to provide "give" in the system.
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divnamite
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Nov 27, 2012
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New York, NY
· Joined Aug 2007
· Points: 90
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Justin Tomlinson
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Nov 27, 2012
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Monrovia, CA
· Joined Apr 2010
· Points: 270
cool, thanks everyone. @ divnamite, isn't that called "no-catch"?
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csproul
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Nov 27, 2012
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Pittsboro...sort of, NC
· Joined Dec 2009
· Points: 330
Introducing extra slack in the rope before the fall is NOT the way to do it. This increases the force (for FF<1) instead of reducing it.
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Gunkiemike
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Nov 27, 2012
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2009
· Points: 3,492
csproul wrote:Introducing extra slack in the rope before the fall is NOT the way to do it. This increases the force (for FF<1) instead of reducing it. Precisely. A longer unchecked fall is not a softer catch. It's what you do to decellerate the climber that softens the catch. I don't think I'd want to climb with anyone who doesn't know the difference.
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Pitty
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Nov 27, 2012
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Marbach
· Joined Apr 2011
· Points: 50
csproul wrote:Introducing extra slack in the rope before the fall is NOT the way to do it. This increases the force (for FF<1) instead of reducing it. Exactly! avoid slack but let some rope slip trough and brake softly!
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Crag Dweller
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Nov 27, 2012
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New York, NY
· Joined Jul 2006
· Points: 125
a little hop when the rope goes tight will do it in almost all situations.
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Daryl Allan
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Nov 27, 2012
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Sierra Vista, AZ
· Joined Sep 2006
· Points: 1,040
Crag Dweller wrote:a little hop when the rope goes tight will do it in almost all situations. +1 Adjust 'hop' based on body weight difference, amount of rope between climber & belayer and protection (bolt/gear/iffy gear).
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frankstoneline
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Nov 27, 2012
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Apr 2009
· Points: 30
if you're a fatty, step in. if they're a fatty, hang on. Leave enough slack off the end of your gri gri so when the climber makes a move they aren't short roped (usually for me this is enough that the gri gri sits just under parallel with the ground).
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Eric Engberg
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Nov 27, 2012
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Apr 2009
· Points: 0
So when I am hanging off of 2 tied off knife blades equalized with a Snarg and my partner is out of sight whining about the verglas (at least I think that is what those noises are) and it's getting dark and the snow is getting heavier and we're 6 pitches up with 2 to go - should I be hopping up and down constantly in the hopes of softening the inevitable (and with the added bonus of warding off hypothermia)? Do you think context might occasionally come into play?
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Wally
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Nov 27, 2012
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Denver
· Joined Apr 2006
· Points: 0
Eric - strange post, dude. Climb on. Wally
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Wade J.
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Nov 27, 2012
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Boulder, CO
· Joined Aug 2011
· Points: 25
Eric Engberg wrote:So when I am hanging off of 2 tied off knife blades equalized with a Snarg and my partner is out of sight whining about the verglas (at least I think that is what those noises are) and it's getting dark and the snow is getting heavier and we're 6 pitches up with 2 to go - should I be hopping up and down constantly in the hopes of softening the inevitable (and with the added bonus of warding off hypothermia)? Do you think context might occasionally come into play? The real question is why are you still climbing with snargs?
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Guy Keesee
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Nov 27, 2012
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Moorpark, CA
· Joined Mar 2008
· Points: 349
""""use that thing between yr ears =P""" Best advise yet seen on any web site.
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Eric Engberg
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Nov 27, 2012
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Apr 2009
· Points: 0
Wade J. wrote: The real question is why are you still climbing with snargs? Sometimes they actually are the best option.
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