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Socorro Area
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Box Canyon 
Major Wall Area 
Spook Canyon 

Socorro Area 


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Lat, Long: 34.0045, -106.989 Map
Page Views: 163,069. Good page? (1 like)   
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Jan 27, 2006

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Wed Thu Fri Sat Sun
Clear
102° | 66°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
99° | 64°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
99° | 66°
Clear
100° | 66°
Partly Cloudy
100° | 70°

BETA PHOTO: Overview of Socorro Climbing areas (The Box, Minor...

Description 

This area has a series of cliffs and boulders of mixed-quality rhyolite. Nice area for winter climbing and bouldering on days with mild winter temperatures. Summer can be SWELTERING, but shade can be found. One can find a plethora of moderate sport routes in the 5.10- 5.11 range, most of which are bolted, though some require gear placement.

Though initial impression of rock quality may be disappointing, much of the rock is actually quite solid (and it varies depending on the area you are climbing at). There are some routes that have had holds reinforced with glue, and some with chipped holds, however.

Well the climbing is fun, the bouldering is spectacular; particularly within the stream bed area of the box.

Rack: 10 draws, set of wires, and a single set of Camalots up to #3 should be fine. Though, just a set of quick draws will get you up a good percentage of the routes.


Resources 

Online:
- A good but not-yet-completed guide to both the boulders and the cliffs:
www.enchantedtower.com
www.enchantedtower.com/PrintDrafts/02-Socorro_Preview.pdf

- Socorro Bouldering Documentation Project: www.nmt.edu/~bob/boulder_guide/sbdp.html

- Small online bouldering guide at: www.drtopo.com/index4.html

Guidebooks:
“Rock Climbing New Mexico” by Dennis R. Jackson. Incomplete, but currently the only in-print guide to the area.

"The Enchanted Tower, Sport Climbing Socorro and Datil, New Mexico" by Salomon Maestas and Matthew A. Jones, 1993. (Out of print)


Getting There 

Find Socorro on Interstate 25 (about 1 hour south of Albuquerque). From there head west on US highway 60, and drive about 7 miles. Keep your eyes peeled left as you cross a bridge (you are driving over the bridge that goes over the canyon), and you will see Box Canyon to your left. Just after crossing that bridge turn left onto a dirt road. Follow the road about 0.5 miles, take your first left, and you will park at the end of the road. The majority of the climbing is right inside box canyon, though there are other walls further up the road (Minor wall, Major Wall, and Alcohol wall). Use the attached map to find the locations of these walls.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Socorro Area:
Colon Blow   V0     Boulder, 25 feet   Major Wall Area : Harmonica Convention (AKA B...
Bitch Tits   V1     Boulder, 18 feet   Major Wall Area : Harmonica Convention (AKA B...
Pressure Drop   V1     Boulder, 12 feet   Major Wall Area : Unbeatable Boulder
Perfect Hair Forever   V4-5     Boulder, 18 feet   Major Wall Area : Las Hermanas
Rubber Walrus Protector   V5     Boulder, 16 feet   Major Wall Area : Harmonica Convention (AKA B...
Chewbacca   V6     Boulder, 15 feet   Major Wall Area : Las Hermanas
American Beauty   V7     Boulder, 18 feet   Major Wall Area : Alf Rig
Rubberband Fingers Stand/Meine Gummi Frau (B)   V8     Boulder, 1825 feet   Spook Canyon : Spook Main Wall
Red Wall   5.7     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   Box Canyon : Red Wall
Liberace's Anus   5.9-     Sport, 50 feet   Major Wall Area : Major Wall
Spiderman   5.9     Trad, 2 pitches, 175 feet   Box Canyon : Red Wall
Juckets & Bugs   5.10a     Sport, 55 feet   Major Wall Area : Major Wall
New Kids on the Block   5.10d     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Box Canyon : Filet de Papillon Wall AKA ...
Bob Marley Meets Master Ganj   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet   Box Canyon : Filet de Papillon Wall AKA ...
Pocket Change   5.11c/d     Sport, 60 feet   Major Wall Area : Pocket Change Wall
Bats out of Hell   5.11d     Sport, 50 feet   Major Wall Area : Major Wall
Power Play   5.12b     Sport, 50 feet   Major Wall Area : Alcohol Wall South
The Demon   5.12d     Sport, 45 feet   Major Wall Area : Major Wall
Ride the Lightning   5.13b     Sport, 45 feet   Spook Canyon : Spook Main Wall
Sinister Dane   5.13b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Box Canyon : Filet de Papillon Wall AKA ...
Browse More Classics in Socorro Area

Featured Route For Socorro Area
This is the old Red Wall topo courtesy of Bob Broilo: "Eric Hufnagel and Bertrand Gramont's topo from 1985 for Red Wall and Spiderman."

Spiderman 5.9  NM : Socorro Area : ... : Red Wall
Gave this a "Great" rating just for P1. P2 is okay. Can rap from the top of P1 with a 60 meter rope. Don't let the 5.9 rating scare you away as it applies to the P1 variation and is well protected.P1 5.8R?: Trend left over ledges, then up and back right to first lone bolt (run-out). Then move right and up to a nice left-trending finger crack with good pro on easier terrain. At end of this crack find bolt above and continue up to a horizontal weakness with gear placements. Make a move or t...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM


Photos of Socorro Area Slideshow Add Photo
Overview map of bouldering areas at Box with roads and parking areas

BETA PHOTO: Overview map of bouldering areas at Box with roads...

Looking West from the Socorro Box. I shot these clouds thinking more would come. No such luck...

Looking West from the Socorro Box. I shot these cl...

Geology of the Socorro climbing areas

BETA PHOTO: Geology of the Socorro climbing areas


Comments on Socorro Area Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bob Broilo
From: Socorro, NM
Apr 4, 2008

Socorro has many areas scattered around, the area described here is actually known as "Box Canyon" or officially by the BLM as "The Box".

By jbak
Apr 8, 2008

A lot of these routes were put up quite a while back...many of them are listed in my 1993 guidebook. I think they were put up before sport development really turned into an art. And it shows. Non-existent anchors, poorly placed anchors, too many shared anchors, too many unprotected bouldery starts, too many ill-considered bolt placements. It kind of takes the gloss off what SHOULD be a really fun area. The rock is great, the movement is good, but the route development is...not so good. I've never considered retro-bolting to be a topic even worthy of discussion, but this area has made me wonder. I think if I had just discovered this area and were doing the development, I could make it much better. It's not a big deal but I just thought I'd lob it out there. During the 3 days I was at Box I never saw any other climbers. I've never had that happen at Datil (which is not very far away). Is the quality of development part of the reason ?

By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Sep 18, 2008

Jbak,

Yes, I think that the way this area was developed is one of the reasons why this area sees so little traffic. While there are many good / great routes here, there are also many that are missing anchors, need supplemental gear, or were just bolted poorly (Spook Canyon for instance). One example is Hurt Me Not, this climb never saw any traffic prior to it's retrobolting, now their is commonly chalk on it. While I was disappointed at the additional bolts as it takes away from the FA and the few subsequent ascents, I never led it until the extra bolts were added, and it is a single pitch route in a mostly sport climbing area.

Another reason for lack of traffic is that this area needs a good guidebook. The 1993 guidebook is far better and more accurate than the error ridden new Falcon guide, where many routes in the guide either don't exist, are in the wrong location, or aren't mentioned.

By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Mar 16, 2009

@jbak

It also really depends on the time of year that you visit Socorro. If Datil is climable in most peoples opinions, yes most will head to the Tower, but if you visit in the middle of winter on a weekend I would be absolutely shocked if you did not see others out unless you were purposely trying to avoid other by avoiding the sun. One of Socorros most redeeming qualities is that when everything else is too cold to climb routes Socorro is still generally pleasent.

In addition, a handful of routes are getting "fixed" from time to time, and yes the Falcon guide is terrible, incomplete and inacurrate but is the only guide currently availible. It probably has fewer than half the routes and none of the bouldering which is quite good in places.