Social Outcast 5.12a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.12a [details] |
| FA: | Ted Hammond, 1989 |
| Submitted By: | Jay Knower on Oct 27, 2006 |
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Jay Conway- low on the route
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Description The unmistakable arete of Social Outcast can be seen from most points at or near Bonsai. Social offers steep climbing on mostly big holds.
Begin with a hard sequence to gain the first jug on the route. Boulder a few moves on huge holds and climb slightly up until you can rest at a no-hands stance.
From the rest, move right onto the arete proper. The big holds continue up the arete. Most people top out to the right and then walk left to clip the chains. The left, more direct, exit is harder and a bit less fun.
Social is a popular first 5.12. The moves are fun, easy to work, and the falls are clean.
Protection 6 bolts.
Secret beta- Grab hold and don't let go!
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Muel on Social
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Ladd Raine making some of the last moves before th...
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Tom Armstrong, on a perfect route on a perfect day...
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me having fun up near the top
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Andrew heading up the aesthetic line of Social Out...
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Jakob finishing up a lap on the most popular outca...
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Jakob making the last clip...
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Tim Deroehn "bouldering" as he put it, Social Outc...
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Tim Deroehn on Social Outcast.
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Tim Deroehn at the rest on Social Outcast.
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me a few moves after the rest
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me on social
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me near the start
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otey, low down (and dirty)
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| Comments on Social Outcast |
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By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 4, 2007
rating: 5.12a
| No fear, the top out holds out right are huge, although the pinch for you left hand for the setup for the move is exactly where the in-place draw hangs (a little annoying, but more importantly it is painful if you forget to move your hand and hang at that draw) |
By Pavel Muravyev
Jul 28, 2007
rating: 5.12a/b
| When I climbed the topout on this route (also my first lead 5.12 outside) I used a heelhook out right in addition to the pinch that you were talking about - it helps stabilize going for the last hold. Overall - the route is a classic!
P.S. People over 6' 0" - can reach the first jug from the ground |
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jun 3, 2008
| The first bolt has been replaced with a nice 1/2 inch glue-in. |
By Dan Smith
Oct 12, 2009
| P.S. The upper two draws are gone, making that last clip real desperate |
By James Otey
From: NH
Oct 12, 2009
rating: 5.12a
| If you're wicked gassed at the top look out right for a fatty heelhook- makes the move to the lip way more manageable |
By S. Neoh
Aug 28, 2010
rating: 5.12a/b
| Left hand finish is the original (I had asked Ted); less secure and harder. Think finger locks and small footholds (a bit strange after all that steep climbing!). For me, definitely 12a/b. |
By Mike Phillips
From: Pittsburgh
Jul 18, 2011
| Pretty good overall. Thought the finish to the anchors was a little weird but there probably isn't a better way for it to finish. The last bolt before the anchors can be annoying because the draw can be directly over the hold you want to be using. |
By James Otey
From: NH
Jul 19, 2011
rating: 5.12a
| The right hand finish is the established one |
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