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Social Distortion 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Chris Smith 4/96
Page Views: 2,110
Submitted By: lee hansche on Apr 7, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Engaged in the crux on a brisk fall afternoon.
Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Just right of the arete of Social Outcast (5.12a/b), climb past the bolts up the steep wall on crimps and a good, sidepull rail (this is a boulder problem that most say is easier for tall folk) mantel on to a really nice rest ledge and rest up for one more boulder problem. Step to the left and clip a bolt then make a few hard moves to a good hold and pull the same last move as Outcast. A cool toss to a good hold and an airy, final mantel. Clip chains to the right.

The moves are really fun. Though not as popular as it's close neighbor, it is worth your time.


Location 

The bolt line just right of the obvious arete of Social Outcast (5.12a/b). Follow bolts to ledge, then step right, and do a few moves to the same top as Outcast.


Protection 

6 bolts to chains with lower off biners fixed.



Photos of Social Distortion Slideshow Add Photo
Grrr... Next time! <br />Kasia Weglarz
Grrr... Next time!
Kasia Weglarz
In the power crux - climber - Kasia Weglarz
In the power crux - climber - Kasia Weglarz
The crux of Social Distortion
The crux of Social Distortion
Comments on Social Distortion Add Comment
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By S. Neoh
Aug 28, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

This route favors strong boulderers. I know of someone who flashed Social Outcast on lead but got totally shut down by this route's V3/V4 lower crux. Strange; this route felt a full letter grade easier to me than its famous neighbor, the Outcast. I did both in the same season years ago. :)

By Dom
Administrator
From: New Brunswick Canada
Sep 5, 2012
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a

By looking at the 'crux' picture, I can tell that the route can feel easier if you're tall. I'm 5'9'' and I had to do an intermediate move to get to where he is on the picture. That intermediate move was definitely the crux.

By S. Neoh
Sep 5, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Perhaps, Dom. By the way, I am 5'6", maybe shorter.

By Dom
Administrator
From: New Brunswick Canada
Sep 11, 2012
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a

Cool S. Neoh. What I said didn't have a link with what you said. Just thought I'd post that this is a climb that would be easier for taller climbers.

The climber I was with is also 5'6'' and he had to do an extra super crimpy move.