|Original: || Hueco: V6-7 Font: 7A+ [details]|
|Season: ||Whenever it's dry|
|Page Views: ||1,544|
|Submitted By: ||jonah on Apr 4, 2006|
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Nate on Sobriosity
|DNR new landowner; open to foot traffic and climbing MORE INFO >>>|
On the back (north) side of the boulder, on the far right side, there is a series of sloping rails. This problem is a sit start on slopers that moves up and right to top out on jugs on the face above. Easily identifiable by the opposing sidepulls about 12 inches apart on the roof. Fun problem involving a bunch of heel trickery (for me, anyway). Apparently the lowest start gets a 7 and the higher rail start gets a 6, but there doesn't seem to be any difference in difficulty.
Good beta picture of it here: 0friction.com/image.php?image_...
I don't know who took the picture, so I don't want to actually post it.
Couple pads and a spotter to keep your head from smacking the rock when your heel gets stuck in the heel hook...
Sam sticking the long move.
Sobriosity. Awesome problem. deserves as many star...
Oct 11, 2007
rating: V6 7A
I think Nic got the FA, rating it V6, back in '01 or '02.
Oct 31, 2007
The original finishing jug broke. Now you have to stall on a crimp where the jug used to be and go again to a higher jug. It's probably more fun that way anyway.