Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Loggerhead Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
?? Simian Sex Junior 
Conquest of the Stud Monkey 
Drunk Tank 
Edge-u-cator 
Le Nocturne 
Log Jam 
Loggerhead Ledge Route 
Orange Juice Avenue 
Simian Sex 
Sink Like A Stone 
Sober Up 
Sorry Poopsie 
Sow Sow Sow 
Swillar Pillar 

Sober Up 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Tucker Tech (1989)
Page Views: 27
Submitted By: Bryan G on Apr 21, 2013
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Sober Up climbs the slab to the right of Swillar Pillar before crossing through that route to join Drunk Tank at the very end. Start the same as for Swillar Pillar, but move off right to clip a very high first bolt (5.9 R/X moves before the bolt). Then climb up past an undercling to a second bolt. From here take a discontinuous crack which angles up and left to briefly join Swillar Pillar. At the roof, pull directly over to a vertical seam and clip a final bolt before moving up and left on fragile holds to finish on Drunk Tank.

This climb can be toproped after leading Swillar Pillar. Given the current condition of the bolts (old 3/8") combined with the already serious nature of the climbing, it's probably not a bad idea to just take the TR ride.


Protection 

Pro to 1" with extra small stuff.



Comments on Sober Up Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -