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 ADVANCED
Loggerhead Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
?? Simian Sex Junior T 
Conquest of the Stud Monkey T 
Drunk Tank T 
Edge-u-cator T 
Le Nocturne T 
Log Jam T 
Loggerhead Ledge Route T 
Orange Juice Avenue T 
Simian Sex T 
Sink Like A Stone S 
Sober Up T 
Sorry Poopsie T 
Sow Sow Sow T 
Swillar Pillar T 

Sober Up 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Tucker Tech (1989)
Page Views: 66
Submitted By: Bryan G on Apr 21, 2013

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Description 

Sober Up climbs the slab to the right of Swillar Pillar before crossing through that route to join Drunk Tank at the very end. Start the same as for Swillar Pillar, but move off right to clip a very high first bolt (5.9 R/X moves before the bolt). Then climb up past an undercling to a second bolt. From here take a discontinuous crack which angles up and left to briefly join Swillar Pillar. At the roof, pull directly over to a vertical seam and clip a final bolt before moving up and left on fragile holds to finish on Drunk Tank.

This climb can be toproped after leading Swillar Pillar. Given the current condition of the bolts (old 3/8") combined with the already serious nature of the climbing, it's probably not a bad idea to just take the TR ride.

Protection 

Pro to 1" with extra small stuff.


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