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Soapy Tit Wank 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Todd Gordon, Nic Conway & Stuart Critchlow, 1993
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,520
Submitted By: Murf on Jan 1, 2005
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Soapy Tit Wank is the dike below the Hoser Crack.

Description 

Directly below the start of Lean Two and Hoser is this route. A dike crosses the rock right to left. It's currently bolted with grey hangers which are possibly the only color which would stand out more than standard silver.

There is a unique move or two on this route that was intriguing. Give it a try if in the area.


Protection 

Four bolts with grey anchors, smattering of hand size cams for anchor at the base of Hoser.



Comments on Soapy Tit Wank Add Comment
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By C Miller
Administrator
Jan 12, 2004

This sounds like "Soapy Tit Wank" FA: T. Gordon, N. Conway and S. Critchlow 1993

By Adam Kimmerly
Feb 4, 2007
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Ok, possibly aside from the colored hangars (they don't stand out that bad!), this route definitely does not deserve the bomb. It deserves a star, at least. It's much more interesting than Georgia O'Keefe right next door which has 1.5 stars at the moment (WTF!). The climbing on this traverse is more intesting than the usual monotonous smear, high-step, repeat of many JTree slabs.

But come on... 11a? No way. I've climbed slabs rated 10a in JTree that had harder moves. I think 10b/c may be a fair rating.

By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Feb 15, 2007

Adam;... You the MAN! I agree;...Soapy Tit Wank deserves a star;....if not for the climbing, a star for the cool route name. I love the climb, and I'm not just saying this because I did the first ascent;....it's got some cool slabby moves;...AND the 5.11a rating;....not MY rating;... we called the thing 5.10+.....(which means 5.10c/d;... your call.) Thanks Adam, for calling it straight. It aint' a dick-wrenching mega-classic, but good fun.

By Murf
Jan 27, 2010

Looking through some old routes and found the above.... Must have been drinking decaf or something, I edited out the "eyesore".

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Mar 3, 2010

that smurf is a grumpy bastard.