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Routes in Sandwalker Buttress
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Bant, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Haciendo Dedo T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Haciendo Polvo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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I'm Calling Your Bluff T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Men at Work T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0 |
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Mormon Teabag T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Soaking in the Shade T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Stolen Knee T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 75 ft (23 m) |
| FA: | Trevor Bowman and Emily Reinsel 3/25/14 |
| Page Views: | 793 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Trevor Bowman on Aug 9, 2014 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
A prominent left-facing dihedral about 100 meters right (south) of the Bant.
Start via a grungy squeeze (or scamper up the shrubby tree and step across) and proceed up more squeeze chimney with handjams in wedged blocks through the dirty lower portion. The upper corner begins as an off-width, and narrows through fists into steep cups.
Some trundling and cleaning was done to the lower section, but it's still a bit dirty and definitely desert blue-collar; the upper corner is clean and excellent.
The climb holds good shade, even late into the afternoon, and the belay is behind a boulder and shady too. This is a good option to escape the heat on this otherwise sunny wall.
Start via a grungy squeeze (or scamper up the shrubby tree and step across) and proceed up more squeeze chimney with handjams in wedged blocks through the dirty lower portion. The upper corner begins as an off-width, and narrows through fists into steep cups.
Some trundling and cleaning was done to the lower section, but it's still a bit dirty and definitely desert blue-collar; the upper corner is clean and excellent.
The climb holds good shade, even late into the afternoon, and the belay is behind a boulder and shady too. This is a good option to escape the heat on this otherwise sunny wall.
Location
About 100 meters left (south) of the Bant on the west-facing cliff that runs from the shallow side canyon just beyond the parking/fenceline (south) to the Bant (north). Refer to the overview/ Beta picture below.
From the parking area/gate, walk up the closed two-track for about 1/2 mile, cut cross-country right (west) through the wash (brushy) and up the loose hillside to the cliff.
About 30 minutes from the car.
From the parking area/gate, walk up the closed two-track for about 1/2 mile, cut cross-country right (west) through the wash (brushy) and up the loose hillside to the cliff.
About 30 minutes from the car.
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