|By Kate Mittendorf|
From: Nashville, TN
Mar 31, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
This is a fun one. It's essentially two stacked boulder problems with a full rest between them. Watch out for the first hanger, it's totally rusted. You might want to just stick clip the second bolt (can be done), but the sequence to there isn't very hard (5.9+ or so because of small holds).
The first boulder problem is pulling the little roof, which feels simply strengthy (V2), and then keep it together til the standing rest. Then move up into the second boulder problem. It's easy til after the clip, and then you move into the real red-point crux, which is more technical and your height/body type will dictate the sequence that works for you.