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So This is What Unclimbed Rock Looks Like? 
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So This is What Unclimbed Rock Looks Like? 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 360'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Phil Persson & Rob Bauer
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 203
Submitted By: rob bauer on Oct 26, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: P1, after stepping left to better crack.

Description 

The S-crack to the horizontal is a little chossy, but OK. Continue up the wide crack until you can step left to a handcrack, which continues to the top of the pinnacle (where we found a bail cord; unclear which side they came up). Anyhow, walk over to the mail wall and continue up the shallow, double cracks until it becomes a chimney and belay, about 150'.

P2: Continue up the right-leaning chimney until it squeezes you out onto a ledge. (You could belay here.) Continue up the easier cracks on the right side near the roof and then up the last corner to obvious easy ground (or you run out of rope? I used a 70m and had maybe 25 feet left). We scrambled the next 50 feet up and walked out to the left, following some cairns.

Both pitches had some good rock, a spicy move, and good adventure. There is loose stuff on ledges, and bring some long draws. Try it out and offer an opinion!


Location 

This is at a distinctive, S-shaped crack, about 100 feet down from the large lower alcove. This is apparently the last route before you turn the corner heading east.


Protection 

Standard rack, plus a #5 Camalot is nice. No bolts. Walk off.



Photos of So This is What Unclimbed Rock Looks Like? Slideshow Add Photo
'...Unclimbed..' no more.
BETA PHOTO: '...Unclimbed..' no more.
Bottom of route.  S-Crack just in the shadow on right.
BETA PHOTO: Bottom of route. S-Crack just in the shadow on ri...
Phil charging up the last pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Phil charging up the last pitch.
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