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SO CAL destinations ( looking for ideas )
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By G Halsne
Jan 27, 2013

Hi All... im planning a trip south from rainy Seattle in mid march, and am looking for some ideas on crags that i have not yet explored. I grew up in LA, but have lived up here for about 8 years, so ive lost touch with the area. That said, on my list of places that i do know/ climbed well and will be keeping on my hit list

Malibu
Santa Monicas
J Tree
Texas Canyon
Rando stuff in the old Orange book

I have about 11 days to fill up and would love suggestions for smaller crags of excellent quality, hopefully ina guide book somewhere. I have the taquitz book, but never been there.. Spent a week in JT last spring... Hope to find some new places to climb! I am looking for mainly sport, but will absolutely be racked up for plugging gear. I climb 11s sport and and comfy on 10s trad.

Thanks!

- Grae


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By david quatro
Jan 28, 2013

I love New Jack City for 11's sport. If you want to plug gear, can't beat Tahquitz.


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By Tristan B
From La Crescenta, CA
Jan 28, 2013
Hanging out on Royal Arches

You could hit up the riverside quarry for some hard sport and then camp at big rock and do a mellow kinda rest day on some fun slab there.

And texas canyon is pretty fun, but there are a lot of better spots.


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By JCM
From Seattle, WA
Jan 28, 2013

There is a good chance that Tahquitz will still be cold/wintry/snowy in March; you'd be better planning to stick with lower elevation crags.


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By G Halsne
Jan 28, 2013

Just peeked at Jack... Looks awesome for sport.. Is there a guide book? Or just MP beta?

RE Taquitz, i have the old 2001 3rd edition Vogel book.. Drawings of rock sketch me out :( Is there a better guide out there with updated photo/topo? I would love to get up there too. Ill check the weather before we head out.

Thanks for the suggestions guys... Super helpful. Im looking at more stuff in the Santa Monica book too. Tick Rock, Black Flower ect. Ive been up to Echo Cliffs, and plenty at malibu, but i suspect more routes have gone up since then.

How about High Desert/ Horsemans center area? Went there once as a kid, loved it...


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By RNclimber
From Riverside, Ca
Jan 28, 2013
Seconds before onsighting Gun Smoke V3, Joshua Tree bouldering

+1 for Riverside Quarry for long, vertical sport routes. Plenty of good 5.11s there. The newest guidebook to the area is one of the best around since its all colored and very detailed.

Tahquitz might be climable in March. I climbed there last year March and weather was perfect. It is southern california where we get temps in the 70s sometimes 80s right in the middle of winter.

Holcomb valley is a good place to clip bolts and plug in gear too in big bear area. Not sure how the access will be around that time of year though.


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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Jan 28, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.

Echo Cliff....

Santa Barbara...


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By G Halsne
Jan 29, 2013

The riverside area is tempting.. since my lil bro lives in riverside, we will be nearby.. what the approach ect?

Talk to me about SB ! Ive never climbed near there, but will be bringing my 8ft board to surf on "rest days" lol...


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By socalbolter
From Silverado, CA
Jan 31, 2013

Quarry approaches range from 5 to 15 minutes of easy walking.


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By Darice Lee
Jan 31, 2013

There are several sport climbing areas in SB, but it's primarily known for its bouldering at Brickyard, Lizard's Mouth, Potter's point. For sport, everything is pretty short around 50 feet but there are quite a few good 11s and 10s at the playground and gibraltar, where there are some trad climbs too. SB's generally got really nice weather but the rock being sandstone is not climbable after rains and the sport routes are not nearly as condensed and many as the Quarry or Holcomb, both of which are really good destinations. However, SB is a good for bouldering! Beautiful views too.


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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Jan 31, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.

Darice is spot on.....

I go climbing in SB when its to friggen hot... or to cold.

Its not worth driving along way to go to but it has some nice quality climbing.

San Yshrido (sp) can be nice and cool caus of the sea breeze...

Gibraltar, Cold Springs Dome, Upper Toxic Shock all have good climbing.

I have not been there sense the HUGE fires and I hear that Toxic and Upper Toxic got burned bad.

Oh yea one more thing. I guess the fires made it possable for the locals to go to some new spots.... good places get a trail made and the stuff that sucks, well the chap grows back really fast.
Maybe check out MP to see updates.


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By Joe De Luca
From yucca valley
Jan 31, 2013
railroad gin v0 FA. JOE DE LUCA

go the apple valley then out to new jack and then out to jtree all are in a strata shot and Holcomb valley is only 45 min from new jack, Holcomb is ok that time of year if you have a 4x4 to get to the parking lot.


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By Bjordahl
From Denver
Jan 31, 2013

I actually would NOT recommend Riverside Quarry if you are on a road trip. The routes are fun but with significant glueing, chipping, and loose rock if you stray too far from the bolt line. It is definitely an urban crag.

It is good for local rock, but not worth one of your limited road trip days. Spend an extra day at New Jack instead if you want to sport climb more.


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By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Jan 31, 2013

I personally think the roped climbing in SB is overrated. Cold Springs Dome is good mostly for that one route that I'm about to misspell--Makunamia, but I think Gibraltar is just meh and some of the other crags are pretty crumbly and not worth the drive.

The bouldering, however, Lizard's Mouth and the Brickyard are pretty fun. Get the Bob Banks book though. The setting and locale are what really set them apart. I think they're worth visiting if you're already up there for, say, the weekend and you want to bring your board, go mt. biking or just visit the town. State St., the Mission, etc., are a great place to visit with a significant other or friends. Beautiful town.


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By Rywess
Jan 31, 2013

SB is a hidden gem for climbing, very underrated and in such an amazing location. For hard sport climbing, nothing really compares to the green wall off of east camino cielo. Its a beautiful green schist and ranges anywhere from 5.8 to 13a. As for the bouldering, brickyard is great, many classic lines consolidated along the front range. I would definitely give SB a look:) you wont be disappointed. If you need any directions, go into Mountain Air Sports on lower state street. Theres tons of climbers that work there and knowledgable about the local scene.


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By G Halsne
Jan 31, 2013

Thanks for the ideas fellows! Keep em coming. I love SB... but never climbed there, just surfed as a kid..

That said, i would love to explore the climbing, but i think for the bulk of the time well be in the southern region... I doubt well go as far SB during the bulk of out stay, but maybe pass by on the way back to the pacific north-wet.

Apple valley... is that kinda the high desert, horesmans center area? I would love to get back there.. went there once as a kid.

So far, ive got about 5 days of climbing to fill up im thinking so far:

JT for 2 days
NJC for one day
Santa Monicas one or 2 day ( Tic rock, Black flower,Malibu, Echo or Mystery science)

just a rough draft anyway


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By Joe De Luca
From yucca valley
Jan 31, 2013
railroad gin v0 FA. JOE DE LUCA

G Halsne wrote:
Thanks for the ideas fellows! Keep em coming. I love SB... but never climbed there, just surfed as a kid.. That said, i would love to explore the climbing, but i think for the bulk of the time well be in the southern region... I doubt well go as far SB during the bulk of out stay, but maybe pass by on the way back to the pacific north-wet. Apple valley... is that kinda the high desert, horesmans center area? I would love to get back there.. went there once as a kid. So far, ive got about 5 days of climbing to fill up im thinking so far: JT for 2 days NJC for one day Santa Monicas one or 2 day ( Tic rock, Black flower,Malibu, Echo or Mystery science) just a rough draft anyway

Apple valley is horesmans center area


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By fossana
From Bishop, CA
Jan 31, 2013
downclimb off the First Flatiron <br />photo by TooTallTim

Having lived in SoCal I personally would consider only J-Tree and Tahquitz as worthy destination climbing. The other places are where you go when you can't talk your climbing partner into a road trip. A few other options another 4 hours from Pasadena:

- Owens River Gorge
- Red Rocks


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By Rough
Feb 1, 2013

Lucerne Limestone is a unique crag in SoCal being that it is limestone. Mostly easy 5.10 and under slab/vert sport climbs with a few 11s. One of the standouts is Ancient Chinese Secret 5.11a. If it isn't your cup of tea, it on the way to NJC and has about a 5 min approach from the parking lot. It is listed here on MP:

www.mountainproject.com/v/lucerne-limestone/106366676


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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Feb 1, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.

Scratch "Mystery Science" poor climbing with access issues.

IMHO the best in Santa Monica is Echo Cliff and Malibu. Spend a day at both, save gas.

Rywess - You got that right, SB is very underrated.


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By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Feb 1, 2013

I'd scratch Black Flower too--kind of junky with really thin crimping and nothing easier than .10d or .11a. Tick Rock is fun, but only if you're in the neighborhood already. I'd agree with Guy that, if you're hitting the Santa Monicas for a day or two, I'd only go to Echo or Malibu Creek. Fun stuff that's worth the drive (if you're in LA).

One more place that no one's mentioned that might be in shape is Horse Flats. Not close to anything else (about an hour up ACH from La Canada), but great bouldering on clean, orange granite. Good stuff if the weather's warm.


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By Gregory D
From La Verne
Feb 1, 2013
fun in the (twilight) sun

If you are planning on going to New Jack then you should maybe do a half day at horsemans center on the way, and maybe even Lucerne limestone and finish the day at new jack. There is camping there and you could get at it right away in the morning. If you end up heading out to Holcomb, Keller peak is on the way with 0 approach and worth stopping for.


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By plantmandan
From Brighton, Co
Feb 1, 2013
J Tree after blizzard

I would strongly recommend more than two days at J Tree. In addition, go there mid week if at all possible. Have a blast!


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By RNclimber
From Riverside, Ca
Feb 3, 2013
Seconds before onsighting Gun Smoke V3, Joshua Tree bouldering

if you go to jtree first and never been there, you're not going to want to leave


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By BrianCarson
From Redlands, CA
Feb 3, 2013
Trashcan Rock - West face - Bimbo 5.10a

RNclimber wrote:
if you go to jtree first and never been there, you're not going to want to leave


It's the truth. JTree was the first place I climbed in SoCal when I moved out here in August, Only other place I've been out here is Echo at Santa Monica, but I'd rather climb at JTree than anywhere else. That is at least until I can get on some alpine granite.


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By Nick Votto
Feb 3, 2013
Bolton, VT

The Needles
Owens River Gorge
Alabama Hills


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