So Alone  5.11b/c

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Type:  Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 40 feet Consensus:  5.11b/c [details] FA:  Taylor Davis, belayer Bradley White, 2010 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  bradley white on Aug 14, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Taylor after the sustained crux and beginning to c...

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Description 

I am in the process of establishing extreme routes, although I probably won't be able to lead or follow the climbs freely. This is the first one that is nearest to completion.
Climb the inclining wall past three bolts for the crux. Each bolt passed has a unique approach to it. 20ft of barn door stemming, undercling moves and a long reach from a lay back to spread yourself out thin will get you through it. Here's a hint 'tip toe through the tulips'. Exhausting with high exposure. I didn't get to try it. This climb does not have rappel anchors yet. For now we used a higher up off of the cliff oak tree. We couldn't hear each other over the traffic sounds from Rt.25. That's why I didn't get to try it. In the meantime it would be convenient to have cell phone communication. After the crux the climb drops off to (5.5) rating finishing past two more bolts to a moss grassy and rock run out to the oak tree. Climb was a hung dog or Taylor did do the first free ascent of it, after peal offs and time to retry, Taylor clipped each bolt without tension. Hasn't had an official FFA ascent yet.

Location 

The center of the east wall. Best approached from 'Beat the Heat', but there is a way to scramble up 4th class from the rarely used trail that goes downward to the triple corners trail from the Jimmy Cliff trail towards the Crow's Nest. I blocked the entrance to this trail with some logs because people are constantly taking it, believing they'll be going to the Crows Nest.

Protection 

6 bolts. Two very far apart bolts are used for the belay. A eight foot sling is what I use. No rappel anchors yet.