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Snowy Range
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Amnesia 
Gooseneck Couloir 
Overhang Direct 
Red Spot 
Sidewinder 
Unsorted Routes:

Snowy Range 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 11,000'
Lat, Long: 41.3408, -106.326 Map
Page Views: 4,864. Good page?   
Administrator: Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Brian Scoggins on Mar 22, 2006

Make this area a Favorite
What's New
  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event 


A view of the 'Diamond' from Lake Marie in the ear...

Description 

The closest alpine-ish climbing to Laramie, the Snowy Range (and all of its climbing) is visible from downtown Laramie. All of the climbing is on the east-facing slabs south of Medicine Bow Peak. Most of the climbing starts around 10,500', with many routes beginning above treeline. According to Jaquot's book, technical routes started going up in the 1950s, and continue to this day.

Long (up to seven 200' pitches), less-than-vertical quartzite routes, sometimes on bone-white stone. It's been said that higher grades are impossible in the Snowies, with their abundance of holds. Be prepared to run it out on all climbs. A standard rack is a single set of nuts, and a single set of cams from very small to 3".


Getting There 

Take Snowy Range Road (Curtis Street) west out of Laramie to Highway 130. Follow this all the way to Lake Marie, where the shortest approach seems to start from the aptly named Lake Marie recreation area. A faint trail winds out of the picnic grounds to the edge of a scree slope, at which point it's cross country to the base of the routes. From the top of the routes, walk south until you reach the Medicine Bow Peak trail, and walk off from there.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Snowy Range:
Red Spot   5.5 R     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III   
Sidewinder   5.6 PG13     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 700 feet, Grade III   
Browse More Classics in Snowy Range

Featured Route For Snowy Range
Looking south towards the Snowy Range rock climbing.  Gooseneck couloir is the rightmost couloir visible.

Gooseneck Couloir AI1 Mod. Snow  WY : Snowy Range
One of the shorter proper couloirs in the Snowies. Climb between the couloir between two rock pillars, passing an island of rock near the top. Climb increases in steepness from about 35 to 40-45 degrees throughout the climb....[more]   Browse More Classics in WY


Photos of Snowy Range Slideshow Add Photo
Looking W towards the climbable rock.

Looking W towards the climbable rock.

The Diamond Face from the Mirror Lake area.

The Diamond Face from the Mirror Lake area.

Looser stuff to the R of the Diamond Face.

Looser stuff to the R of the Diamond Face.

Diamond Face from Lake Marie.

Diamond Face from Lake Marie.

Diamond Face from the E side of Lake Marie.

Diamond Face from the E side of Lake Marie.

The face to the right of the Diamond Face from Lake Marie.  School something.

The face to the right of the Diamond Face from Lak...

The face to the right of the Diamond Face from Mirror Lake.  School something.

The face to the right of the Diamond Face from Mir...

Joe Williams in no man's land, The Diamond.

Joe Williams in no man's land, The Diamond.

Medicine Bow, June 2008.

Medicine Bow, June 2008.

The Diamond.

The Diamond.

North Side of Diamond Peak

North Side of Diamond Peak


Comments on Snowy Range Add Comment
Show which comments
By phil wortmann
From: Colorado Springs, Co.
Nov 21, 2007

A friend and I were just driving thorugh the medicine bow this summer and decided to onsight the dead center of the diamond. We knew nothing about established routes, or the history of climbing here. We aimed for the 200' tower running up the center of the diamond and hoped to find more direction from there. From the beginning, I noticed this tower was a house of cards, with huge boulders frictioned on top of other even bigger boulders. This pitch made the Black Canyon look like bullet stone. once on top of the tower, we glanced up the center of the face above and didn't see a place for gear for at least the first fifty feet, with possible .10+ climbing. We gained our senses and rapped off on directional gear. I have since found this handy website, and hope to return next summer.

www.jharp.net/snowy_climbing.htm

By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Nov 27, 2007

Anything to the right of that pillar is dangerously loose since the major rockfall a few years back. Also, Skip's page is a little error prone as far as beta goes, and pretty error prone as far as names go. There's a guidebook available in Laramie at Cross Country Connection written by Ray Jaquot. The topos are pretty much impossible to read, but the route descriptions are pretty good.

By Conor Raney
From: Pinedale, WY
Oct 22, 2010

Hey Brian,

Just wondering if you could edit the page so adding areas are available? I would like to add Diamond Peak, MedBow Peak, etc. as areas so we can distinguish routes with mountains. I just don't want to have 2 Snowy Range Areas.

Thanks :)

By Conor Raney
From: Pinedale, WY
Oct 22, 2010

Actually, I should ask if it's okay if I make a new area and just copy all your info/pics over?

By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Oct 24, 2010

Actually, years ago I tried to do precisely that, but then they deleted all of my empty crags since nobody else wanted to post up, and I had really hazy memories of my time on old Main and Triangle Buttress. You can totally take the info though, for whatever its worth. You'll have to ask the other people who posted photos though, I don't claim those. Maybe try contacting one of the area managers?

By Conor Raney
From: Pinedale, WY
Oct 26, 2010

Well thats a bummer!! But yeah I might try to reorganize the Snowy Page or something, cuz I would like to go up there sometime and put up new routes and have a place to record them lol. So i'll ask around, and see if we can't get this Snowy page looking good.

By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Oct 26, 2010

Like I said, contact a mod/area manager/admin (whatever they're called around here). They're usually pretty responsive when it comes to suggestions for making the site better.

By Portwood
From: Your moms house last night
Nov 21, 2010

Just went on a scouting trip to find possible ice. Any one know of any ice/mixed routes? Ive found some potential routes but it looks like all the snow gets blown off the summit so the potential for good ice to form looks a bit grim.

Potential Snowy Ice?
Potential Snowy Ice?
Submitted By: Portwood on Nov 21, 2010

By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Nov 22, 2010

There's those left leaning gulleys on Triangle Buttress, and I've seen a short bit of blue ice on the right side of the big amphitheater below University Avenue (in the center of your picture). I've not heard of anyone climbing them though. Grunge Gulley (the couloir between the Diamond and Diamond Buttress) occasionally freezes up, but its more a challenge for skiers than climbers. We also get pretty good snow climbing, provided that the road opens while its still in good season. Part of the reason there isn't much info is because you need a snow mobile or a 3-day weekend to be able to get to any of these climbs, and to be honest, I've yet to meet a snow-mobiler up there who carried an avy-beacon, let alone a set of ice tools.

Also, this early in the season, the cornice hasn't formed up yet, so you can't see it. Those gulleys do get a lot of moisture.