| Snowy Range |
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A view of the 'Diamond' from Lake Marie in the ear...
Description The closest alpine-ish climbing to Laramie, the Snowy Range (and all of its climbing) is visible from downtown Laramie. All of the climbing is on the east-facing slabs south of Medicine Bow Peak. Most of the climbing starts around 10,500', with many routes beginning above treeline. According to Jaquot's book, technical routes started going up in the 1950s, and continue to this day. Long (up to seven 200' pitches), less-than-vertical quartzite routes, sometimes on bone-white stone. It's been said that higher grades are impossible in the Snowies, with their abundance of holds. Be prepared to run it out on all climbs. A standard rack is a single set of nuts, and a single set of cams from very small to 3".
Getting There Take Snowy Range Road (Curtis Street) west out of Laramie to Highway 130. Follow this all the way to Lake Marie, where the shortest approach seems to start from the aptly named Lake Marie recreation area. A faint trail winds out of the picnic grounds to the edge of a scree slope, at which point it's cross country to the base of the routes. From the top of the routes, walk south until you reach the Medicine Bow Peak trail, and walk off from there.
The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Snowy Range:
Red Spot 5.5 R Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III
Sidewinder 5.6 PG13 Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 700 feet, Grade III
Browse More Classics in Snowy Range
Featured Route For Snowy Range
Looking W towards the climbable rock.
| The Diamond Face from the Mirror Lake area.
| Looser stuff to the R of the Diamond Face.
| Diamond Face from Lake Marie.
| Diamond Face from the E side of Lake Marie.
| The face to the right of the Diamond Face from Lak...
| The face to the right of the Diamond Face from Mir...
| Joe Williams in no man's land, The Diamond.
| Medicine Bow, June 2008.
| The Diamond.
| North Side of Diamond Peak
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By phil wortmann From: Colorado Springs, Co. Nov 21, 2007
| A friend and I were just driving thorugh the medicine bow this summer and decided to onsight the dead center of the diamond. We knew nothing about established routes, or the history of climbing here. We aimed for the 200' tower running up the center of the diamond and hoped to find more direction from there. From the beginning, I noticed this tower was a house of cards, with huge boulders frictioned on top of other even bigger boulders. This pitch made the Black Canyon look like bullet stone. once on top of the tower, we glanced up the center of the face above and didn't see a place for gear for at least the first fifty feet, with possible .10+ climbing. We gained our senses and rapped off on directional gear. I have since found this handy website, and hope to return next summer. www.jharp.net/snowy_climbing.htm |
By Brian Scoggins From: Eugene, OR Nov 27, 2007
| Anything to the right of that pillar is dangerously loose since the major rockfall a few years back. Also, Skip's page is a little error prone as far as beta goes, and pretty error prone as far as names go. There's a guidebook available in Laramie at Cross Country Connection written by Ray Jaquot. The topos are pretty much impossible to read, but the route descriptions are pretty good. |
By Conor Raney From: Pinedale, WY Oct 22, 2010
| Hey Brian, Just wondering if you could edit the page so adding areas are available? I would like to add Diamond Peak, MedBow Peak, etc. as areas so we can distinguish routes with mountains. I just don't want to have 2 Snowy Range Areas. Thanks :) |
By Conor Raney From: Pinedale, WY Oct 22, 2010
| Actually, I should ask if it's okay if I make a new area and just copy all your info/pics over? |
By Brian Scoggins From: Eugene, OR Oct 24, 2010
| Actually, years ago I tried to do precisely that, but then they deleted all of my empty crags since nobody else wanted to post up, and I had really hazy memories of my time on old Main and Triangle Buttress. You can totally take the info though, for whatever its worth. You'll have to ask the other people who posted photos though, I don't claim those. Maybe try contacting one of the area managers? |
By Conor Raney From: Pinedale, WY Oct 26, 2010
| Well thats a bummer!! But yeah I might try to reorganize the Snowy Page or something, cuz I would like to go up there sometime and put up new routes and have a place to record them lol. So i'll ask around, and see if we can't get this Snowy page looking good. |
By Brian Scoggins From: Eugene, OR Oct 26, 2010
| Like I said, contact a mod/area manager/admin (whatever they're called around here). They're usually pretty responsive when it comes to suggestions for making the site better. |
By Portwood From: Your moms house last night Nov 21, 2010
| Just went on a scouting trip to find possible ice. Any one know of any ice/mixed routes? Ive found some potential routes but it looks like all the snow gets blown off the summit so the potential for good ice to form looks a bit grim.
| Potential Snowy Ice? Submitted By: Portwood on Nov 21, 2010
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By Brian Scoggins From: Eugene, OR Nov 22, 2010
| There's those left leaning gulleys on Triangle Buttress, and I've seen a short bit of blue ice on the right side of the big amphitheater below University Avenue (in the center of your picture). I've not heard of anyone climbing them though. Grunge Gulley (the couloir between the Diamond and Diamond Buttress) occasionally freezes up, but its more a challenge for skiers than climbers. We also get pretty good snow climbing, provided that the road opens while its still in good season. Part of the reason there isn't much info is because you need a snow mobile or a 3-day weekend to be able to get to any of these climbs, and to be honest, I've yet to meet a snow-mobiler up there who carried an avy-beacon, let alone a set of ice tools. Also, this early in the season, the cornice hasn't formed up yet, so you can't see it. Those gulleys do get a lot of moisture. |
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