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Snow/Mixed/Ice routes in February
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Aug 27, 2014
Post climb celebration drinks with a sweet line in...
Heh I'm looking for some routes in the Cascades, preferably in the northern Cascades, that will be good to climb in mid to late February. I'm looking for routes with a decent amount of technical difficulty i.e. not only snow slogging. It doesn't have to be sustained but has at least a couple technical pitches. I was thinking Triple Couloirs route on Dragontail and one other. Any input would be great, thanks! LawHous
From Colorado Springs, CO
Joined Jul 21, 2012
190 points
Aug 28, 2014
RCC@50+ Photo courtesy CO Crack Gear
New York Gulley on Mt. Snoqualmie. Some epic trip reports...

NY Gulley
RobC2
Joined Mar 9, 2009
168 points
Aug 28, 2014
About half way up the East Arete on Illumination R...
Triple Couloirs is primo climbing when the route is in primo condition... but it isn't always. Check recent TRs before heading up. It's a popular route, so someone will have nabbed it if it's nabbable. Ben Beckerich
From saint helens, oregon
Joined Jun 24, 2011
267 points
Aug 30, 2014
Access into the true North Cascades is very difficult in mid-February. Most folks will choose to go to either Stuart Range or Snoqualmie Pass for alpine routes at that time of year. That said, there is often a period of high pressure around the second/third week of February that typically gives a week to ten days of generally nice weather. Though snow/ice conditions can still be less than idea.

Some ideas:
Chair Peak, North Face, NE Buttress
The Tooth, NE Slab
Snoqualmie Mountain, New York Gully, Pineapple Express
Dragontail Peak, Triple Couloirs, Cotter-Bebie, Wasson-Wilson
Colchuck Peak, NE Couloir, North Buttress Couloir
kurthicks
Joined Dec 28, 2007
543 points
Sep 1, 2014
RCC@50+ Photo courtesy CO Crack Gear
I doubt there will be any ice on the CB on Dragontail in February, we did this one in June. Dragontail 3XC we did in early April otherwise it can be just powder snow. The Tooth NE face is a good winter adventure, and definitely NYG. Another idea is Mt. Index, and please, please, please, don't follow any of my suggestions and go get yourself killed, several people I knew did this and frankly I felt somewhat culpable...

Oh, and there's Big 4 North Face, epic, epic, epic...

Last but not least, Snow Creek Wall can be pretty insane in winter, definitely can scare the shit out of yourself on this one!
RobC2
Joined Mar 9, 2009
168 points


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