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SnowBird Slab/Cornerstone
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Snowflake T 
Thin As Ice S 
Tinsel Moose  T 

Snowflake 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,092
Submitted By: coldclimb on Jun 23, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Jenni cleans gear from Snowflake at midnight on an...

Description 

Either belay from the ground, or (my preference) scramble up to a slopey ledge at the base of the real climbing. Follow the obvious winding flake up the length of the slab. Top out on dirty chickenheads to a mossy ledge and head left to find the bolted anchor for Thin As Ice. Rappel the route with two ropes, rap twice using an intermediate anchor on Thin As Ice with one rope, or walk off.

Location 

Find the Snowbird Slab and you've found the route.

Protection 

Pro to 1-inch. Bring lots of small cams.
Two-bolt anchor.


Photos of Snowflake Slideshow Add Photo
Jess on Snowflake
Jess on Snowflake
The top of Snowflake showing the upper runout to t...
BETA PHOTO: The top of Snowflake showing the upper runout to t...

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By bergbryce
From: California
Jul 26, 2010

Excellent route that gobbles up gear. Until the end when you have to run it out a bit on moss and mud left to get to the anchors. Good fun.
By Ty Morrison-Heath
From: Bozeman, MT
May 18, 2011

Can be a little wet and cold.
By Dommelhiemer
Administrator
From: Anchorage
Jun 30, 2014

The bottom and the top of this are often a little...moist...
By Dommelhiemer
Administrator
From: Anchorage
Jul 13, 2014

This route seems to wetter and dirtier every time I head out here. It might be about to loose some stars in my book, especially when compared to the other quality routes at this area.
By coldclimb
From: Wasilla, AK
Jul 15, 2014

I agree that it does seem to be getting dirtier with time. A fix to that might be to assess where the dirt is coming from up top, and take some steps to control the erosion! This is still a great route if it's clean, and it's worth taking steps to keep it from growing over.
By Mat Brunton
Aug 9, 2015
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Super fun and high quality route. Although relative to other Hatcher climbs I would probably rate it 5.8+, especially as it has one section in the lower 1/3 that seems perpetually moist and slick. If this section were dry it would definitely be significantly easier, but avoiding this section to keep your rubber dry makes it harder. While the upper section may get wet, it seems to dry quickly. As the anchors are relatively easy to hike to, it would probably be beneficial to shovel away some of the tundra above this climb; this seems to be what is channeling water and grunge down the flake. As for the upper runout, if you can make it up the Snowflake this part is easy. The lower section is a fun, easy solo to the 2 bolt belay anchor.
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