From the southern (left) end of the cave wall, ascend the lower tier by a nice hand crack in a left-facing dihedral. This is one of the nicer cracks I've done at Castlewood. If this were a climb by itself it would be three stars. However, the upper part is not as aesthetic, but I still give it two-stars. At the ledge, ease onto a slabby ramp that begins the second half of the climb. Up above climb up a right-facing dihedral. A few jams lead to a wider part in the crack where you must reach into, get your feet and jam the protruding fist crack. One last chimney/ twin crack move gets you to the top.
Standard rack with medium to large cams, and passive pro such as nuts and hexes. The top anchor can be made from gear or using trees on top (35' away).
BETA PHOTO: snowden from a far.
From: Englewood, CO
Mar 12, 2003
Fun easy climbing and a bit longer than most castlewood routes. I lead the whole thing with only stoppers but some bigger pro would be okay too. Setting up the anchor on top is a bit of a pain. I just belayed my second from on top. Definately worth doing especially for beginning leaders like myself.
|By Marc Stuive|
From: Parker, Co
Mar 21, 2010
Climbed this on top rope. A definite must to return for a lead. Nice layback opportunity at the bottom. Plan to minimize pro on the bottom and blast through the layback to the ledge.