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Snow Lion starts gently and steepens at two distinct sections. The first steep section is at a constriction in route. If you look closely the snow pulls away from the rocks underneath and some crevasse type features come to the surface. Punching through would not be advised! The second steep section is right at the ridge crest. As you near the ridge crest the route steepens considerably and the snow got rotten. The snow on our June 24th ascent was in great shape with the exception of the last 200'. The face gets an early sun hit and the top had taken a considerable amount of sun be the time we topped out.
Snow Lion is located on the south east face of Jasper Peak. Use the approach to Diamond Lake and then Upper Diamond Lake to get the base of the climb. It is located to climbers right of a broken rock rib extending from the summit of Jasper Peak. The northeast slopes route is an easy descent from the summit, but sliding down Gateraid will return you to the base of Snow Lion.
100' 8mm rope with three pickets. A selection of tri-cams and pieces up to 3/4" may be useful to protect the last 100'.
BETA PHOTO: A picture of the Snow Lion route from directly bel...
BETA PHOTO: Jasper Peak with the upper part of the Snow Lion s...
BETA PHOTO: Upper secton of the Snow Lion route. The snow ext...
|By John Korfmacher|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 9, 2008
Climbed 6/7/08 with a large group. The snow was in reasonable shape but got pretty soft by 9 a.m. MDT.
I recommend following the route shown in the beta photo. It is possible to exit to the right above the rock band, but you'd miss the best (steepest) snow on the route.