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Locomotion Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Edam vs Gouda T 
Edom vs Moab T 
Grain Dance TR 
Gunks West T 
Hhecht T 
Jump Back Loretta T 
Jumping Jehosephat T 
Leaping Leaner T 
Lumping Fat Jennie T 
Slip and Slide TR 
Snnfchtt T 
Wilderness of Edom T 


YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Randy Vogel, Darryl Nakahira & Charles Cole, 1981
Page Views: 452
Submitted By: Kyle Wills on Feb 1, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Right crack of two that make up the Prominent crack to the right of Leaping Leaner.

Start directly to the left of a large boulder in which the 10b Gunks West starts on. (good luck on that one)

The Crux is definitely the moves right off the deck. After about 9 ft of climbing you enter into a crack with just bomb-tastic hand jams.

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By Stormeh
Feb 11, 2014

The start is definitely harder than 5.8. I thought it was harder than any of the moves on the 10b to the right of it, for what it's worth. I also though moving from the stance below the crack was harder than 8.
By Howard.
From: Irvine, CA
Nov 16, 2015

To people that did this route years ago, has it changed? Start was not even close to an .8 on 11/15/15.
By Kyle Wills
From: San Diego CA
Nov 16, 2015

I don't recall the details but I would first and foremost note the standard J-tree adage: the first ten feet don't factor into the rating of many of the climbs (or something to that effect)
By Howard.
From: Irvine, CA
Dec 2, 2015

I haven't done the 10b to the right, but based on what I expect from 10b's, I think Stormeh may be spot on.
I've done weird routes in JT, but this one has been one of the bigger surprises.

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