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Feldschijen
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Sännetuntschi T 
West ridge T 

Sännetuntschi 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 900', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: K Giger, R Jäggi
Season: High summer
Page Views: 224
Submitted By: Colin Winter on Jul 30, 2014

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Pitch six from above

Description 

Ignoring the intro pitch to access the headwall, an extraordinary, steep alpine route from start to finish, linking a series of stellar and varied cracks in a very logical line.

Never a dull moment. Perfect rock from start to finish.

Grades go at 4c, 6c+, 6b+, 6a+, 6b, 6a+, 5b, 6b, 5c - although the pure crack pitches (pitches 2, 3 and 8) will probably seem soft for those who are proficient in jamming.

For a complete topo, refer to the filidor guidebook "Schweiz Extrem Ost".

Location 

The climb begins at the north-facing base of the 3rd Feldschijen tower, about 20 minutes below the base of the pronounced west ridge.

There's nothing marking the start, but look for a pronounced recess / chimney feature. As of summer 2014 there was one colorful sling near the end of the chimney where the terrain begins to flatten out into a plateau underneath the headwall.

Descent is by abseil.

Protection 

Anchors are fully equipped (also for abseil), and the pitches typically have 2 or 3 bolts - all high quality material (rebolted in 2012).

Complementary gear placements abound. Guidebook recommends cams 1-4 double and a set of rocks. Unless you are cool to run it out a bit or backclean, it is particularly helpful to have several #2s.

Furthermore, we were not unhappy to have had a #5 to bury in the offwidth section of the crux pitch.


Photos of Sännetuntschi Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch six, with the splitter hand crack of pitch 8...
Pitch six, with the splitter hand crack of pitch 8...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch two
Pitch two
Rock Climbing Photo: Signature pitches two and three of the route, foll...
Signature pitches two and three of the route, foll...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch two, from above
Pitch two, from above
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch seven
Pitch seven
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch five
Pitch five
Rock Climbing Photo: The splitter crack on pitch eight
The splitter crack on pitch eight

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