Snidely's Whiplash  5.8 R

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.8 [details] FA:  Hendriks & Callaway, 1983 Submitted By:  Richard Shore on Mar 6, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Snidely's Whiplash (5.8R) follows the blue line. T...

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Description 

Climb a plumb line of huecos to a large roof midway up the face. Pro can be had at the start in a small right facing corner (#1 camalot) and in one or two of the small huecos above (creatively placed tricams, #2 camalot). With pro well below your feet, start climbing over the roof on large buckets on its right side. Clip the bolt and pull over the roof to a good stance with a second bolt. Slightly runout face climbing leads to the third and final bolt, and the belay ledge.

Location 

Lower angled face immediately right of Makunaima Wall, and just left of the 3-bolt route Magic Bag (5.9).

Protection 

A single #1 and #2 camalot, 3 bolts (3/8"). 2-bolt anchor at the ledge halfway up the face. Rap from bolts here with a single rope, or continue up wandering 5.7 terrain to the top.