Snickerdoodle 5.9
| 747 page views
Good page?   |
| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Romain Wacziarg & Matthew Fienup (March 2008) |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Matthew Fienup on Mar 10, 2008 |
| |
The first ascent of Snickerdoodle, March 10, 2008....
Add Photo  Printer View
Description Sustained climbing up a long arete.
Easier if you stay left of bolts 4-7; a full grade harder if you stay right, on the actual arete.
Location From the fixed anchors atop Footprints, walk up the right side of the Central Gully for about 100 feet. Snickerdoodle is located on an obvious, rounded arete immediately left of a gaping gully/chimney. For more info, click here
Protection 8 lead bolts plus a 2 bolt top-anchor with rappel rings (eight 1/2" Rawls & two Fixe Triplex)
BETA PHOTO: Red: Snickerdoodle
Yellow: Rational Expectations
|
Jesse Groves nears the top of Snickerdoodle, at th...
| |
| Comments on Snickerdoodle |
|
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Apr 1, 2008
| Today, I led this route for the first time. I must say, I respectfully disagree with my friend Romain--the route felt stout even for 5.9. Also, there is BIG fall potential below the 4th and 8th bolts on climbing as hard as 5.6/5.7. It would be very bad to fall below the 4th bolt--you'd get hurt. It would be very exciting to fall below the 8th bolt--there's about 18 feet of air between you and a taught rope.
This is not a route to push yourself on. It's a VERY aesthetic line though... |
By Ryan Kosh
From: Los Angeles, CA
Mar 25, 2009
rating: 5.10a PG13
| Did some holds break off on this? The route still seems a bit loose and some of the moves felt a full grade more difficult than 5.9 to me. |
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Mar 25, 2009
| Ryan, I tend to agree with you on the grade. I climbed this route again on the 20th (admittedly on TR), and I thought that the route felt stout for 5.9. I thought the route had actually cleaned up a bit, though. |
By Jeff Fiore
Nov 28, 2009
rating: 5.9
| Led it straight up the bold line/on the arete, and I think 5.9 is the right grade here. There was really only one move that gave me pause, but the bolts (beautiful hardware and installation btw) are close enough that it was never too scary. If anything the lichens were the one element that made me take extra care with my footwork - this route will get less dicey after more traffic.
Weather note: Climbed this route today on our way home from LA for Thanksgiving and it was COLD (windy and in the shade b/t 1 and 2 p.m.). Left north on 33 and there was snow over the summit. |
|
RSS Feed
17 more...
Slideshow
