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Sun Wall
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YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jeremy Weaver - 1997
Page Views: 1,368
Submitted By: saxfiend on Mar 6, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Derek rapping off of Sneakers. Photo by Mike N.


A really fun sport route, featuring a tenuous start, thin slab/face climbing and a roof pull at the finish.

Starting next to a looming boulder, balance your way up onto the slab. Continue up to a shallow roof (protected by a bolt); pull the roof and continue to the anchors.


Follow the Sun Wall trail past the Whipping Post area a good ways until you reach a section where large blocks stand between you and the main wall. Crawl between the boulders to the start of Sneakers and Eclipse (a gear route to the left of Sneakers).


5 bolts, bolted anchors.

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By Jay Knower
From: Plymouth, NH
Jan 18, 2008

It didn't seem like the climbing route followed the bolt line. After the first bolt, I kept wandering to the right. Maybe I was just lured by the bigger holds out there. Do most people stay right of the bolts, or was I just wimping out from the thin slab climbing (which would be likely for me)?

By Geissler Golding
Oct 6, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Clipping the first bolt is very spicy! In retrospect, I'd stick-clip it next time. The route offers crimps with smears, slab, airy exposed arete moves, small roof and even a couple of good thin and strong face moves up top... Pretty happy to have returned to it. Note: the shuts (open) are fairly rusted, thankfully some well-meaning steward has placed two shiny new bolts w/ a chain and rap-ring - all super new.