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Leading the arete
Sneak-a-Peak Arete starts left of the obvious arete in the center of the right face. It traverses right to get to the arete after the overhang ends, and then climbs straight up, utilizing both sides of the arete and thin edges.
Sneak-a-Peak Arete has no fixed anchors and it isn't easy to set up an anchor, but it can be done. There is no fixed gear on the route and it is very runout.
By Nathan Fisher
Aug 6, 2006
The lead is not as runout as I thought. There is groundfall after your high first piece, so beware. Almost predominately cams are needed as all the cracks are horizontal. The size range is about 3 inches to micro. So bring some of all of it, although the big is the least neccesary. I did also use one brass nut. This is a fun lead.
By Tyler King
From: Salt Lake, UT
Sep 15, 2008
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Great route! Thin and beautiful rock! If it were longer it would be a classic! As mentioned there is deckfall potential just before you get the second piece in, beware. After that it isn't really runout. Mostly small cams / TCU's. I set some directional micros for my second piece.