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 ADVANCED
Lower Grotto
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Affirmative Action S 
Bedeviled S 
Bergers Bakeshop S 
Better Late than Never S 
Bush in a Blender S 
Chopping Block S 
Diabolical S 
Evil S 
Good S 
Ken's Shitty Route (K.S.R.) S 
Muscle Crow S 
Snazz By Nazz (aka Access Crack, Guillotine Crack p1) T 
Waiting to Procrastinate S 

Snazz By Nazz (aka Access Crack, Guillotine Crack p1) 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Ken Sims, 1989
Page Views: 329
Submitted By: George Perkins on Jun 22, 2008

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Description 

This dihedral is mostly 5.7 finger crack with a short well-protected 5.8 crux at the top. Rated 5.7 during it's re-discovery in the early 90's, the guidebooks have bumped it up to 5.8, and a 5.7 leader won't be happy. It's seen enough traffic so that it's not all that loose anymore, but it's main value lies in that it lets you get to the good stuff on the Upper Tier.

Team KNB (Kisiel, Newell, Beguin) is responsible for the anchor at the top of this pitch. The name Snazz By Nazz these guys gave to this pitch was unfortunately forgotten (and is one of the cooler route names around). Thanks Scott for this historical info.

Location 

This is the dihedral left of Evil and Diabolical and to the right of Chopping Block.

Protection 

Standard trad rack 1 set nuts, 1 set cams. (If continuing up Guillotine Crack's pitch 2 or Rolling Brown Out, you'll want more gear.)
From the 2-bolt anchor, you can rappel back to the Grotto with a single 60m rope.


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