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Snapping Station 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Tod Anderson, Summer 2009
Page Views: 685
Submitted By: percious on Jul 11, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Chris Perkins on Snapping Station. Photo by Jose ...
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Description 

Pull through a series of crumbling overhangs to a short roof with an excellent undercling. Pull a few hard moves through the overhang, and watch with amazement as another 'hang appears above. Follow some intricate moves to the second overhang, then pull through and right over the lip to easier (5.10) face climbing.

Sustained, pumpy, long, this is a must do. It is recommended that it be cleaned by a second, since cleaning from the top can result in an unsafe swing.


Location 

It is just left of the blunt arete of the lower right butress. Find a well-bolted overhang with crumbling rock at the start.


Protection 

16? draws.



Photos of Snapping Station Slideshow Add Photo
Holy Crap Wall. <br /> <br />Snapping Station is almost on the right skyline....
BETA PHOTO: Holy Crap Wall.

Snapping Station is almost on the...
Going into the second crux.
Going into the second crux.
Comments on Snapping Station Add Comment
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By slim
Administrator
Sep 10, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Difficult to describe gradewise and quality wise, it has a lot of poor rock on it, with the start bordering on comical (although it isn't funny while you are leading it - stick clip the 2nd bolt). However, the climbing on it is excellent.

The crux isn't excessively difficult, but the crumbly feet and being wound up from the loose start kind of added some weight to my chalkbag. Getting in a good position to clip the next bolt took some patience.

Definitely clean the route by TR'ing it - trying to do so on rappel or lowering would not be fun.

By BrendanP
From: Fort Collins, Colorado
Aug 30, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Don't be discouraged by the first fifteen feet or so of loose stuff, the moves above will give you the best kind of amnesia. Some thoughtful bolt-skipping will help through the first crux as well as help to reduce rope drag above - be safe!

By Tre
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 9, 2014

Jumped on what I think is this route last weekend, following the bolt line took me all the way to the top ledge with two sets of anchors. It was probably 16 bolts, though, which makes me wonder if it was Snapping Station. Anyone know if there's a lower set of anchors I blew by? Or maybe I should man up and start skipping bolts....

Awesome route, don't clean on rappel.