Snakeskin 5.9+
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 160 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | James Garrett, Pat Maloney, George Rosenthal, 12 April 1997 |
| Submitted By: | Ryan Brough on Apr 11, 2007 |
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BETA PHOTO: Snakeskin slithers up the weaknesses in the center...
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Description Scramble up an easy face to a bolt. Slither past a pin and enter the weaknesses that snake to and fro. There are several possible variations, as the cracks and seams fork like a viper’s tongue. Touchy traverses, an odd combination of jams, friction, face moves and rest stances will leave you smiling by the time you reach the belay ledge. For the second pitch (can be lead as one pitch, but the rope drag would be problematic), scramble up to a bolt and pop the crux bulge to a slab stance. Wind your way up the slab to a set of anchors just below the summit and enjoy the view. This is some of the highest quality rock at Ibex. The approach is a tad longer than some, but well worth the extra minute or two. There is a terrific flat spot upon which to deposit gear, change your shoes, relax, and belay. This area sees the sun for most of the day, but the sun goes over the horizon in the early evening, providing adequate shade on hotter days.
Location The south face of the Syringe Wall is divided by a chimney. Snakeskin climbs the weaknesses between the chimney and the arête to the left. A ledge is visible towards the top, and the second pitch disappears over the horizon above.
Protection Mixed bolts, fixed lost arrows (anodized blue) set of nuts and small to medium camming devices for the first pitch, all bolts for the second, crux pitch. A two rope rappel from the top anchors gains the base of the climb. Several long slings will help to alleviate rope drag. Some of the fixed protection is placed in awkward places that wind back and forth across the weaknesses. Also, it may be wise to back up the pitons that are bent (they weren’t fully seated and have yet to be tied off). A helmet is recommended.
Ben seconding the first pitch.
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Ben arriving at the slab just after pulling the cr...
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Leading up to the crux of Snakeskin on the second ...
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BETA PHOTO: Looking down at the first pitch. Winds a bit, so ...
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This fatty rattly was found a few feet right of th...
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Two of the four rattlers we saw at the base of Sna...
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Jewls coming up ptch2 Snakeskin
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By Greg Martinez
From: SLC UTAH
Sep 22, 2008
rating: 5.9+
| the 2nd pitch was better than the 1st scary anchor on pitch 2. |
By James Garrett
Nov 19, 2008
| I am truly honored to hear that Gregorio Martinez from Snowbird, Utah has climbed at Ibex. Was there a welcoming party out there for you as their should have been? How many routes did you put up? Pretty fun place for a bbq and a shot of corn, eh?
jg |
By Blake Summers
From: Park City, Utah
Apr 21, 2010
| Fun route!Beware the rattlesnake infested corner at the base of Snakeskin. Saw four there 4/20/10. |
By BobGray
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Feb 17, 2012
| What a great route! One of the must do routes at Ibex. Bring your A game though, not for the 5.9 leader. |
By Roy Suggett
Nov 1, 2012
| Fun old school route! Not just clipping bolts...it's a thinker! |
By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 10, 2013
| I used a single yellow MasterCam on the second pitch before pulling the roof (just after the first bolt). I felt like fall protection would be safer/less painful this way but ymmv.
A single 70 m will get you down. The second pitch is fairly short and the leader can lower back down to the belay if desired. |
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