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Snakes In The Grass 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Brian Spiewak
Season: Spring, Fall, Winter
Page Views: 861
Submitted By: Dave Daly on May 2, 2009
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Start by heading up the open slab. The San Diego County Climbing guide shows a 5.10 crux on this slab. NOT! A few moves of 5.8+, nothing harder there. Continue up to a large flake (pro to .25 to 7.5') then head to the 4th bolt. Steeper terrain awaits as you move past bolt #5. Balance, edge and crank up past bolt #6 (the .10a crux). Once past bolt #6, face climb to the right, along the upper edge of a slanting slab. Head to the anchor that is located at the top of the slab. Best option is to set the anchor on the slab and belay from the anchor bolts (rings) 8' to the right. Best rappel is from the anchor with rings (the same anchor for pitch #2 of 'Pause For Cause'). Two raps makes it back to terra firma.

  • Special Note*
Be aware that this route sits under the big roofs above (a source of water runoff). So be prepared to encounter some slick sections of rock in the steeper sections. Also, the SDC guidebook posts a "One star" rating for this route. Certainly better than that, in this page authors opinion.


Location 

Located approximately 100 feet left of the Leonids Wall and approximately 30 feet right of a broken right facing dihedral. A clean orange slab with three bolts leading up to higher ground marks 'Snakes In The Grass'.


Protection 

- 9 draws (for bolts)
- .25 to .75" (Aliens and Camelot Jr.'s work fine)
- a few 2' slings and biners for the trad pro



Photos of Snakes In The Grass Slideshow Add Photo
Chris H leading Snakes in the Grass.
Chris H leading Snakes in the Grass.
Comments on Snakes In The Grass Add Comment
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By Kellen Holt
Mar 4, 2012

I did this route today. Maybe I missed some key holds, but I did feel parts of the slab borderlined on 5.10 (I somewhat remember the part past the second bolt to be a bit tricky). The two bulges above felt like the cruxes. Overall a good route for a 5.10 climber. Every time it felt like it was going to get tough, a key hold would appear that helps you pull through. Also, long slings are somewhat helpful at the top of the route to avoid rope drag, but not necessary.

By bspiewak
Nov 5, 2013

There is now a two bolt rap/lower off anchor at 100'.
You can still climb to the anchor above if you want to.