|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]|
|Submitted By:||Craig Childre on Nov 21, 2006|
|Comments on Snakes Head Dihedral||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Daniel S
From: Oklahoma City
Sep 16, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
|A number 6 cam will make the crux much easier to protect. The number five requires a lot of effort to place and is almost tipped out where you want protection the most.|
By Chris Walden
From: Soldotna, Alaska
Apr 24, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Guide Book claims a #5 protects crux/roof but alas it does not so BEWARE.
So this route marks my first down climb... Words can't explain how bad this sucked. Route follows a large crack underneath the Snakes Head in a dihedral. First solid piece of pro is ~50 feet up, think it was a #2 then the dihedral just opens up to a large offwidth crack. Up another 50-60 feet is the roof and the crux. So here I am ~100-110 feet up with one piece 50-60 feet below me, and the #5 not fitting anywhere. Spent a few minutes looking to place anything from the #5 to a micro nut and there is nothing... Two choices #1 try to traverse under the cruxy roof with a slip being a 100 footer deck job or #2 Down climb... arrrg.
I am not sure a #6 would protect the roof here either... I am thinking a Big Bro or a Valley Giant #12 is needed.
Jan 17, 2016
I've heard that there is a cam placement on the upper side of the crack beneath the crux. The crux is a sort of chimney/smear that isn't as hard as it looks. We didn't have big pro back in the day, so this route was a solo. Not a beginner's route.
I agree that this route is scary, though. You need to be pretty solid or you will end up having to downclimb. Serious route.