A short rock containing two bolted lines on some beautiful, glassy quartzite. There is a toprope anchor on the west side and chains for two bolted routes on the east side.
A feature on the top, south side looks like an open-mouthed snake head when viewed from downslope and southwest.
It is really a shame this outcropping isn't taller. If it were 60 feet tall these routes would be classics.
Note: The rock below the anchors for the bolted routes is remarkably sharp. Better to rappel than lower.
Getting There
Take the trail north from the Rock Canyon parking lot. When the wide, gravel path narrows there is a dirt road that branches up and right. Take the dirt road for a couple of hundred feet and then hike up the gully.
Climb up the left side of the glassy, gorgeous rock. There are fairly large holds, particularly farther left. Climb to a ledge and then up and over the overhang directly above the last bolt....[more]Browse More Classics in UT
As mentioned in the description, it is a shame these routes aren't longer. As it is, they'd be two star routes but for the approach.
The rock is really sharp below the anchors in the direction of the bolted lines. I rappelled when I did these routes; Christian later told me core-shot a rope lowering from them.
The approach to this area was not fun. I'm not going back. The way the anchor is setup and the direction of the climb, if you lower you're going to trash your rope. I repelled from the other anchor on the other side.
The approach is pretty rough! hahaha oh well, it would actually be fine if there was some steps put in to the gully trail but due to the fact that the area is so small I don't see that happening. I also thought the anchor bolts were put in an odd spot. They are good if you want to bring up the second to the ledge where the bolts are and then rappel to the west. One can walk right off along the top ridge line fairly easily as well, although it's exposed so if you are afraid of such things be prepared to rap.
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