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How to locate the start...
P1: (5.6) Climb up the right-facing broken corner to the ledge, then climb up a crack with a small tree (V1). Continue on the easier ground above the tree, make a balancy move (crux), and then climb up to the GT ledge. This pitch is a nice and well-protected outing, and you can traverse to the last pitches of routes between Snake and Arrow.
P2: (5.7) Climb a huge right-facing corner, pass a bush, choke off grass and a big tree. Continue up the crack (hand to fist jam at the bottom, chicken wing at the top) to the ledge with rap slings.
V1 5.8 G FA: Joe Bridges, Dick Williams, 1987
From the Snake crack move out left and climb difficult looking finger-crack through an overhanging bulge.
It's also easy to walk just a bit north (right) to the bolted rappel line at Arrow.
Begins 40 ft right of Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct, half way up the slope towards Red Pillar.
Standard rack, big cams (BD #3-5) for the second pitch
BETA PHOTO: Start Snake by climbing the right-facing corner to...
|By Artem Lebedev|
From: Los Angeles, CA
Oct 6, 2008
Although the guidebooks do not recommend the second pitch, I found it very interesting and challenging. Rare example of non-trivial crack in Gunks. Admittedly, it is wet and dirty.
Jun 6, 2010
rating: 5.6 PG13
The headwall on P1 is a committing fingercrack move - stiff for the grade if you are short. Bring smaller stoppers to backup the old pin (I used a BD #2). I agree that P2 could be interesting, but it's dirty, grassy and the bush is about to fall off any minute. There is no pro till the the tree ledge some 50ft up (I didn't bring any big cams for this). The OW on top looked fun, but the face is covered in moss, so I backed off. Funny thing, I saw a black snake at the start of the climb as well!
From: Wayne, PA
Jun 16, 2012
P1 is a lot of fun. Easy peasy climbing leads to a mellow crux, back to easy peasy. Great for a newb follower.