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Fortress Wall
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American Crack 
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Bedtime for Bonzo 
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Turret, The 
Where Lizards Dare 


YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Bob Molzon & Dick Shori, 1977
Season: Faces SE, but gets tree shade at times
Page Views: 1,253
Submitted By: Tony B on Feb 14, 2007
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Exiting the crux on Snake.


A great route with the sole flaw of not being longer. This route is pretty good and offers good protection.
Negotiate your way up to the shallow slot above the small tree a body length above the ground, then pass the crux getting out of the wide spot and into the crack above. A set of anchors is at the top to belay and rap from.


Walk left in the main amphitheatre about 1/2 way to the end, passing the distinctive American Wall and American Crack. Continue on the trail passing between a large flat boulder and the main cliff and around a small protrudance a short distance. You will immediately pass a left-facing corner (Calypso III) and then see a right leaning crack with a small tree growing on a chockstone near the bottom of it. The crack is briefly a slot, then goes to a more uniform crack and more vertical above. This is the route "Snake, 5.8."


A rack of stoppers and cams to 3"

Photos of Snake Slideshow Add Photo
Ger running up snake 2010-08-29
Ger running up snake 2010-08-29
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By Chris Chaney
From: Arvada, Colorado
Feb 21, 2007

You can build a top rope anchor and extend it directly over the crack. This is the best way to top tope. The bolt anchors are too far off to the right and the rope rubs along a rough edge with loose stuff. Of course with a directional and a top belay it's no problem either.

I concur with Tony, great route!

By saxfiend
From: Decatur, GA
Oct 27, 2008
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c

One of the nicest lines I got on at Fortress. The transition from the flaring chimney to the crack above was the crux for me. Need to lead it next time.

By Michael McClarty
Mar 20, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

this was my first ever trad lead. I thought the route was thought provoking and demanding on protection at cruxes as the placement usually occupies a predominant handhold or foothold. trust your feet and there's a rest on every move!