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Routes in (f) Phun Rock Main Wall & Sunbug Slab
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Amorphous S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Arapilesian Dog S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Blefuscuan Bandicoot S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Boltergeist S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bolterheist S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Concentric Extraction S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cream S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Creamsicle S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Double Take S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Drive-By Nose Job S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Exodus to Lilliput S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Finger Food S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fractured Fairytales S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Gridlock S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Guide's Day Off S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Idyll Worship S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Invasive Species S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Jam Sandwich S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Kids Nowadays S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lay Z Daze S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Left Hand Man S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Magic Limbo Cha-Cha S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Megafauna S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Nobody's Fault S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Play Pal S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Plethora S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pothole Panhandler S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Psychological Crutch S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pygmalion S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Riled Child S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Snake Fingers T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Steppenruf S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Swell S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Tasmanian Devil S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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They Might Be Giants S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Thick and Thin S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Two Bolts or Not S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Vagrant Skies S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wide Load S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 55 ft (17 m) |
| FA: | Bryan Burdo |
| Page Views: | 4,044 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | Bobby Hanson on Sep 26, 2011 |
| Admins: | applewood, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Camping for Climbers in Mazama
Details
From the MVC:
The Methow Valley Climbers, a chapter of the Washington Climbers Coalition, respectfully asks visiting climbers to NOT camp or sleep in your vehicles anywhere along the paved section of Lost River Road or in the Fun Rock parking lot ... Please use a blue bag when on route and take all of your trash home. We thank you for taking responsibility during your visit to help keep climbers in good relations with the local community. Welcome to the valley and safe climbing.
From the USFS:
When planning your visit to the Methow Valley, please choose an appropriate campsite and use established toilets, or pack it out in areas without toilets. The roadside pullouts below the Goat Wall and Gate Creek are NOT considered sustainable places to camp due to proximity to the Methow River and lack of toilets.
Please see the uploaded map "Camping for Climbers" for campgrounds ($8-12 per night) and low-impact FREE dispersed areas with toilets within a few miles of your favorite crag. Free sites include: Goat Creek and Yellowjacket SnoParks (April-October only), and dispersed sites west of Monument Creek Trailhead.
The Methow Valley Climbers, a chapter of the Washington Climbers Coalition, respectfully asks visiting climbers to NOT camp or sleep in your vehicles anywhere along the paved section of Lost River Road or in the Fun Rock parking lot ... Please use a blue bag when on route and take all of your trash home. We thank you for taking responsibility during your visit to help keep climbers in good relations with the local community. Welcome to the valley and safe climbing.
From the USFS:
When planning your visit to the Methow Valley, please choose an appropriate campsite and use established toilets, or pack it out in areas without toilets. The roadside pullouts below the Goat Wall and Gate Creek are NOT considered sustainable places to camp due to proximity to the Methow River and lack of toilets.
Please see the uploaded map "Camping for Climbers" for campgrounds ($8-12 per night) and low-impact FREE dispersed areas with toilets within a few miles of your favorite crag. Free sites include: Goat Creek and Yellowjacket SnoParks (April-October only), and dispersed sites west of Monument Creek Trailhead.
Description
This is a cool route with some nice sequences. The start is thin and technical, but the crux (especially for shorter folks) is up higher in the crack.
Location
On the main wall of Fun Rock, toward the left-hand side. There are two bolted cracks, this is the one on the left. The other is Kids Nowadays and is rated .10d or .11a.
Protection
This was at one time a trad climb with one bolt protecting the face at the bottom. It has since been fully retro-bolted, and can be led on a handful of quickdraws. To lead it traditionally, bring gear to 2" with an emphasis in the small stuff (i.e. Aliens). There is a 3-bolt anchor on top equipped with chains for rappelling.
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