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Unsorted Routes:

Snake Book 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mike Paul and Rondo Powell, February 1988
Page Views: 1,341
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2002
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"Snake Book".
Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

Identifiable as the short, clean right-facing corner on the right side of the wall.

A great route with technical stemming, protected by small wires, that opens to accept fingers higher up. A convenient anchor at the lip facilitates an easy return to the base as well as being condusive to doing laps. Sadly, this route doesn't go for another hundred feet or so, but alas that's Josh.


Protection 

pro to 2" (include thin wires/RP's), anchors



Photos of Snake Book Slideshow Add Photo
Gabe gingerly stemming his way through the lower crux section of the Snake Book.
Gabe gingerly stemming his way through the lower c...
"Snake Book". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Snake Book".
Photo by Blitzo.
A snake that I found below "Snake Book". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
A snake that I found below "Snake Book".
Photo by ...
Comments on Snake Book Add Comment
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By Vernon Stiefel
Nov 10, 2003
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

I have to agree with Murf for the rating on this climb. It might be 10d on TR or on lead if you have very thin fingers (at least three stars out of five).

By C Miller
Administrator
Nov 10, 2003

I'm really surpised that you guys think this is 5.11b. I've lead it several times and it's never seemed harder than 5.10+. My recollection is about three or four moves of well-protected and positive stemming before it opens up to accept fingers (and no my fingers don't fit right away). It seems easier than the stemming crux of Coarse And Buggy and Bridge Of Sighs for example.

By Vernon Stiefel
Nov 10, 2003
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

I thought the stemming crux on Coarse and Buggy was easier than Snake Book. However, Bridge of Sighs (dicey pro at the crux!!) was definitely more difficult than Snake Book for me....the vagaries of route ratings.

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Nov 10, 2003

"the vagarities of route ratings" Good point, especially at Josh of all places.

By Randy
Nov 24, 2003
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Great climbing, but short. Maybe 3 of 5 stars.

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jul 30, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

I did Snake book and Coarse and Buggy a couple days apart and thought Snake Book was much more challenging stemming.

By Dimes
From: Joshua Tree, Ca.
Nov 15, 2010

Bring the smaller to medium HB's as well as very small camming units for the first 20' of the climb.

By Richard Shore
Dec 19, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

10d?!?! The stemming crux was significantly more difficult than Coarse and Buggy. And it's more like 20 feet, not 3-4 moves, until you can get fingers in. If fiddling with micro-wires through the crux doesn't appeal to you, it's easy enough to set a TR off the bolts after climbing one of the other routes.

By Al Peery
Aug 28, 2012

Rondo, Jeff and I put a TR on this one after the FA of Rattler and Baby Rattler. I don't recall any of us getting the TR clean that day, but we got on it to late to give it many tries. I came back a few years later to bag the TR clean, but would not want to lead it on the tiny gear even with all of the new micro cams. At my light climbing weight of 235 lbs I snap the wires on nested RPs. Two thumbs up to anyone who leads this!

By Brian Treanor
Dec 21, 2012
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

The stemming on this is definitely harder than Coarse and Buggy and definitely goes on for longer.