View from scenic 108
Home to dozens of amazing ice climbs. The area can either be very busy or totally empty - it's safe to count on a small crowd though.
Park on Rt. 108 where the road ends (seasonal road - don't try to drive up it, tickets are typically around $150 and the State Troopers love to hand em out).
Ski, snowshoe or hike up the road a mile or two to get to your climb - the climbs are obvious and located on both sides of the road.
Browse More Classics in Smugglers Notch
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Smugglers Notch:
Featured Route For Smugglers Notch
The Impossible Problem
: Smugglers Notch
: Top of the Notch Boulders
I spent a number of days trying this route and was shut down by weather.This is the climb to do in Smuggs. It starts off on a two positive crimps at about head height. You make a move up to a terrible two finger pocket that nearly ripped all of my skin off. Then slap your feet on terrible edges and smear on the left part of the arete. Make a very difficult move up to a terrible hold on the lip. Slap a large bucket and finish....[more] Browse More Classics in VT
View from scenic 108 - Quartz Face Area
Nicole cruising up Jane Fonda's V0 at the workout ...
green mnt gringo
|Comments on Smugglers Notch
Oct 9, 2007
Also some of the best bouldering in the NE. See Kemples guide.
|By Chris Silk|
May 21, 2008
Lee we should come up here and boulder. Leah and I made it up last year and it was amazing!
From: plymouth, nh
Jan 4, 2009
Someone should post more route info... I would love to know more bout the bouldering here
|By Pat McGinn|
Sep 29, 2009
I'm going to try and put up a comprehensive guide with all the routes I know about.
Apr 13, 2010
Check out Tim Kemple's guidebook for the area, New England Bouldering. It can be picked up at just about any outdoor shop for under $30 and it includes not only Smugglers Notch, but many other areas in New England as well such as Rumney, Lincoln Woods, Pawtuckaway, just to name a few. The new edition even has updated lines like the V11 Truth and Lies.
|By Chris Duca|
From: Hinesburg, Vermont
Apr 14, 2010
I would air on the side of caution when using the aforementioned guidebook when visiting Smuggs. Though comprehensive, it does include some misleading information re: difficulty, names, location. Additionally, as dense and maze-like as Smuggs is, it is hard to use said guidebook when navigating around up there. Better to find a local for the tour.
From: Essex Junction, VT
Jul 25, 2010
I hope to add a bunch of climbs including pictures and more descriptive approaches (See the listing on Thump for what not to do...). Please feel free to correct any mistakes in names/grades I may make.
|By colin rickert|
From: Ottawa, ON
Jul 26, 2010
I agree with Chris. The NE Bouldering Guidebook was not compiled by locals (was added more as an after thought in my opinion) and so does contain some misleading information. That said, it's got most of the basics right though I think some grades are questionable in origin and a few of the names are wrong too. If I am correct I believe "The Green Egg" is called "Green Mountain Gringo" in the guidebook (is that where the surrogate name started?). In reality, there was never a "Green Mountain Gringo" problem on that boulder, it was always "The Green Egg" with the FA by John Sherman. Someone correct me if I am wrong....
Jun 25, 2012
Is there a way to organize this area by boulder?
I'd like to add some of the lines & variations that didn't make it into Kemple's guide. but organization by boulder would make it much easier to find the lines.
Aug 7, 2012
I agree the grades in the Kemple book are all incredibly inconsistent, and directions to boulders are often misleading. Still, better than nothing.
Best part of climbing at Smuggs: pissing off passing drivers. Some woman in a mini van called us "very stupid" as we finished a roadside V0... definitely the highlight of my weekend! :)
From: Providence, RI
Sep 21, 2012
Any idea on what the weather will be like up there this weekend, Sept 21st, Does the place dry out fast??