Smugglers Notch 

Also some of the best bouldering in the NE. See Kemples guide.

Lee we should come up here and boulder. Leah and I made it up last year and it was amazing!

Someone should post more route info... I would love to know more bout the bouldering here

I'm going to try and put up a comprehensive guide with all the routes I know about.

Check out Tim Kemple's guidebook for the area, New England Bouldering. It can be picked up at just about any outdoor shop for under $30 and it includes not only Smugglers Notch, but many other areas in New England as well such as Rumney, Lincoln Woods, Pawtuckaway, just to name a few. The new edition even has updated lines like the V11 Truth and Lies.

I would air on the side of caution when using the aforementioned guidebook when visiting Smuggs. Though comprehensive, it does include some misleading information re: difficulty, names, location. Additionally, as dense and maze-like as Smuggs is, it is hard to use said guidebook when navigating around up there. Better to find a local for the tour.

I hope to add a bunch of climbs including pictures and more descriptive approaches (See the listing on Thump for what not to do...). Please feel free to correct any mistakes in names/grades I may make.

I agree with Chris. The NE Bouldering Guidebook was not compiled by locals (was added more as an after thought in my opinion) and so does contain some misleading information. That said, it's got most of the basics right though I think some grades are questionable in origin and a few of the names are wrong too. If I am correct I believe "The Green Egg" is called "Green Mountain Gringo" in the guidebook (is that where the surrogate name started?). In reality, there was never a "Green Mountain Gringo" problem on that boulder, it was always "The Green Egg" with the FA by John Sherman. Someone correct me if I am wrong....

Is there a way to organize this area by boulder?

I'd like to add some of the lines & variations that didn't make it into Kemple's guide. but organization by boulder would make it much easier to find the lines.

I agree the grades in the Kemple book are all incredibly inconsistent, and directions to boulders are often misleading. Still, better than nothing.

Best part of climbing at Smuggs: pissing off passing drivers. Some woman in a mini van called us "very stupid" as we finished a roadside V0... definitely the highlight of my weekend! :)

Any idea on what the weather will be like up there this weekend, Sept 21st, Does the place dry out fast??