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Smugglers Notch

Select Area...
Boulders Behind the Main Parking Lot/Visitor Center 
Easy Gully Buttress 
ENT Boulders 
Roots Boulder Area 
Top of the Notch Boulders 
Rest Day:
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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Smugglers Notch  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 44.55625, -72.79428 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 76,812
Administrators: Luc, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Orphaned on Nov 27, 2006  with updates from rogerk
Forecast:
Mon Tue Wed Thu Fri
Partly Cloudy
24° | 23°
Ice Pellets
31° | 30°
Rain
36° | 34°
Snow
37° | 23°
Clear
29° | 24°
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Best routes for YOU in this area
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Nicole cruising up Jane Fonda's V0 at the workout ...

Description 

Home to dozens of amazing ice climbs. The area can either be very busy or totally empty - it's safe to count on a small crowd though.

Getting There 

Park on Rt. 108 where the road ends (seasonal road - don't try to drive up it, tickets are typically around $150 and the State Troopers love to hand em out).

Ski, snowshoe or hike up the road a mile or two to get to your climb - the climbs are obvious and located on both sides of the road.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.0 miles from here

109 Total Routes

['4 Stars',11],['3 Stars',47],['2 Stars',41],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',7],['V2-3',48],['V4-5',21],['V6-7',16],['V8-9',8],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',6],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Smugglers Notch:
Runnin' for Cover   V0-1 4+     Boulder, 13'   Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : Duck Soup Boulder
The Obtuse   V2 5+     Boulder, 25'   Roots Boulder Area : The Roots Boulder
Top of the Notch   V2 5+     Boulder, 17'   Top of the Notch Boulders : Wheaties Boulder
Biscuit   V2-3 5+     Boulder   Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : Biscuit and Gravy Boulders
Primate   V3 6A     Boulder   Top of the Notch Boulders : Backyard Boulder
The Workout Traverse   V3 6A     Boulder   Top of the Notch Boulders : Workout Wall
General Patton's Arete   V3 6A PG13     Boulder, 25'   Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : Patton Boulder
Pac-Man   V3 6A     Boulder   Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : Pac Man Boulder
Dojo   V4 6B     Boulder, 1 pitch, 15'   Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : The Top Rope Boulders aka T...
Porn Star   V4-5 6B+     Boulder, 12'   Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : Pac Man Boulder
One Eyed Monster   V5 6C     Boulder   Top of the Notch Boulders : Backyard Boulder
Nemesis Traverse   V5 6C     Boulder   Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : The Bone Doctor
The Roots   V5 6C     Boulder, 20'   Roots Boulder Area : The Roots Boulder
The Green Egg (aka "Green Mountain Gringo")   V6- 7A PG13     Boulder, 16'   Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : Green Cave
Little Cottonwood   V6 7A     Boulder   Top of the Notch Boulders : B.F.B.
The Masochist   V6 7A     Boulder, 8'   Top of the Notch Boulders : Wheaties Boulder
Boomerang   V6 7A     Boulder   Top of the Notch Boulders : The Asteroid
Pulled Pork   V7 7A+     Boulder   Top of the Notch Boulders : The Asteroid
The Impossible Problem   V8 7B     Boulder   Top of the Notch Boulders : Backyard Boulder
Filet of Finger   V8 7B     Boulder   Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : The Bone Doctor
Browse More Classics in Smugglers Notch

Featured Route For Smugglers Notch
Just Straight Crimpin'

J.S.C (Just Straight Crimpin') V6 7A  VT : Smugglers Notch : ... : P.A.L.E
J.S.C was found, cleaned and climbed within a week. Luca and I found this climb one day after trying and failing on an old Bill Patton project. We called it J.S.C because, we figured that Johnson State College deserves some love, and after all, this climb was put up by two JSC students. Also this climb is hard moves between poor crimpers.After many attempts and broken holds (4 times to be exact) the climb finally went. The movements on the climb are spectacular and while some of the holds are sh...[more]   Browse More Classics in VT

Photos of Smugglers Notch Slideshow Add Photo
smuggs
smuggs
smuggs
smuggs
View from scenic 108
View from scenic 108
View from scenic 108 - Quartz Face Area
View from scenic 108 - Quartz Face Area
smuggs
smuggs
green mnt gringo
green mnt gringo

Comments on Smugglers Notch Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 23, 2014
By ri.
Oct 9, 2007
Also some of the best bouldering in the NE. See Kemples guide.
By Chris Silk
From: Hooksett
May 21, 2008
Lee we should come up here and boulder. Leah and I made it up last year and it was amazing!
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jan 4, 2009
Someone should post more route info... I would love to know more bout the bouldering here
By Pat McGinn
Sep 29, 2009
I'm going to try and put up a comprehensive guide with all the routes I know about.
By Arian
Apr 13, 2010
Check out Tim Kemple's guidebook for the area, New England Bouldering. It can be picked up at just about any outdoor shop for under $30 and it includes not only Smugglers Notch, but many other areas in New England as well such as Rumney, Lincoln Woods, Pawtuckaway, just to name a few. The new edition even has updated lines like the V11 Truth and Lies.
By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Apr 14, 2010
I would air on the side of caution when using the aforementioned guidebook when visiting Smuggs. Though comprehensive, it does include some misleading information re: difficulty, names, location. Additionally, as dense and maze-like as Smuggs is, it is hard to use said guidebook when navigating around up there. Better to find a local for the tour.
By mikejohnson1
From: Essex Junction, VT
Jul 25, 2010
I hope to add a bunch of climbs including pictures and more descriptive approaches (See the listing on Thump for what not to do...). Please feel free to correct any mistakes in names/grades I may make.
By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Jul 26, 2010
I agree with Chris. The NE Bouldering Guidebook was not compiled by locals (was added more as an after thought in my opinion) and so does contain some misleading information. That said, it's got most of the basics right though I think some grades are questionable in origin and a few of the names are wrong too. If I am correct I believe "The Green Egg" is called "Green Mountain Gringo" in the guidebook (is that where the surrogate name started?). In reality, there was never a "Green Mountain Gringo" problem on that boulder, it was always "The Green Egg" with the FA by John Sherman. Someone correct me if I am wrong....
By rogerk
Jun 25, 2012
Is there a way to organize this area by boulder?

I'd like to add some of the lines & variations that didn't make it into Kemple's guide. but organization by boulder would make it much easier to find the lines.
By MikeJ
Aug 7, 2012
I agree the grades in the Kemple book are all incredibly inconsistent, and directions to boulders are often misleading. Still, better than nothing.

Best part of climbing at Smuggs: pissing off passing drivers. Some woman in a mini van called us "very stupid" as we finished a roadside V0... definitely the highlight of my weekend! :)
By JamieRe
From: Providence, RI
Sep 21, 2012
Any idea on what the weather will be like up there this weekend, Sept 21st, Does the place dry out fast??
By boulderbum
From: NY
Mar 27, 2014
Colin you are wrong. Read stone crusade. VT gym gumbies called it green egg out of sheer ignorance.
By rogerk
Apr 3, 2014
Boulderbum,
It's not out of sheer ignorance. The Vermonter who was with Sherman on the day of the send has misremembered the name and told the story repeatedly with the "Green Egg" name. Simple misremembering of something that happened years ago.
By Keyan P
From: Burlington, VT
Jul 23, 2014
Anyone heard of a climb called "Twilight Army" (v9)? Might also go by "Kyle's Problem". Any info would be appreciated. Thanks!