Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Smorgasbord Wall
Select Route:
Smorgasbord T 
Strawberry Jam T 
Texas Direct T,TR 
Texas Flakes T 

Smorgasbord 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,465
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Oct 26, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Doing Smorgasbord as a 2 pitch, skipping the under...

Description 

Smorgasbord is located on the right side of the wall and starts in a shallow obtuse dihedral formed by the Smorgasbord wall and the Triple Cracks buttress. The exact line that you take it up to you - there are a number of variations that are all around 5.6. The most obvious line climbs a grass seam for about 10 feet above the slab and leads to a large flake that climbs up and left. Follow the flake around its left side to a ledge. Small cams protect the flake, and bring long runners to reduce rope drag. Scramble up a few feet to a two bolt rap anchor.

Protection 

Standard rack with cams to a #2 Camalot. Two bolt anchor at the top. Long slings are helpful.


Comments on Smorgasbord Add Comment
Show which comments
By CalebSimpson
Mar 3, 2008

The anchors on this route are hard to find if you don't know where they are. I ran out of rope and realized I had passed them.

At the top of the dihedral where it turns right and forms a shelf, from here go right past a tree and the anchors are on the right. The anchors are about a total of twenty feet to the right of the shelf.

Definitely use lots of runners on this one. The rope drag was so bad I had to stop and pull up lots of slack to progress. It was a real pain to bring up my second.
By Stan Jones
From: Benbrook, TX
Feb 25, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Definitely consider making this a two-pitch by belaying at the top of the dihedral before continuing up the flake. That should minimize rope drag. Also be aware that a 60m rope will only let you rap to the top of the first boulder, and you'll have to down-climb the boulder. The other option is to walk off the dome to the east.
By Jennifer Barton
From: Champaign, IL
Dec 23, 2010

Yep... didn't look at this one on Mountain Project before we climbed it and the 60m didn't reach the belay boulder we used - turned into an easy walk off, though. The exposure on this one... awesome. We did the dihedral up the right with the man-sized crevice you go over and "cave" area you can look at to the right.
By Superclimber
Feb 8, 2014
rating: Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c

A 60 Meter rope WILL NOT make it all the way down from the anchors.