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Doing Smorgasbord as a 2 pitch, skipping the under...
Smorgasbord is located on the right side of the wall and starts in a shallow obtuse dihedral formed by the Smorgasbord wall and the Triple Cracks buttress. The exact line that you take it up to you - there are a number of variations that are all around 5.6. The most obvious line climbs a grass seam for about 10 feet above the slab and leads to a large flake that climbs up and left. Follow the flake around its left side to a ledge. Small cams protect the flake, and bring long runners to reduce rope drag. Scramble up a few feet to a two bolt rap anchor.
Standard rack with cams to a #2 Camalot. Two bolt anchor at the top. Long slings are helpful.
Mar 3, 2008
The anchors on this route are hard to find if you don't know where they are. I ran out of rope and realized I had passed them.
At the top of the dihedral where it turns right and forms a shelf, from here go right past a tree and the anchors are on the right. The anchors are about a total of twenty feet to the right of the shelf.
Definitely use lots of runners on this one. The rope drag was so bad I had to stop and pull up lots of slack to progress. It was a real pain to bring up my second.
|By Stan Jones|
From: Benbrook, TX
Feb 25, 2009
Definitely consider making this a two-pitch by belaying at the top of the dihedral before continuing up the flake. That should minimize rope drag. Also be aware that a 60m rope will only let you rap to the top of the first boulder, and you'll have to down-climb the boulder. The other option is to walk off the dome to the east.
|By Jennifer Barton|
From: Champaign, IL
Dec 23, 2010
Yep... didn't look at this one on Mountain Project before we climbed it and the 60m didn't reach the belay boulder we used - turned into an easy walk off, though. The exposure on this one... awesome. We did the dihedral up the right with the man-sized crevice you go over and "cave" area you can look at to the right.