Climb the crack in the right-facing corner to the weird, giant roof/flake thing. Go around the right side of this, then head for anchors in the corner at the top.
On the climber's right of the overlook area, in a right-facing corner.
Charles Cooper under the roof section on Smores. G...
From: Decatur, GA
Aug 24, 2008
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Nice route! When I led it, I assumed working the roof was part of the route, so I did, and that felt like the crux to me. Later, I saw someone else bypass the roof altogether by traversing the face below it and then up into the corner; I did that on toprope and it was far easier. I don't know which is the right way to do it, but I think the face traverse drops it to the 5.7 range.
May 27, 2010
great corner with handjams!!
|By Harry Baxley|
Aug 5, 2010
One of the anchor hangers is missing.
From: Golden, Colorado
Sep 5, 2010
I'm going to replace that anchor. The bolt's still in there, so it's not going to be much to fix.
Apr 2, 2012
Be warned, the chockstone above the roof is quite loose. I tested it with a .75 and the crack expanded when the cam was placed. Better pro in the crack ~5ft above. Otherwise, a great route.
|By Charles Cooper|
May 15, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fun route. The finish of the route is very easy, and the start is definitely the crux. Combine stemming with toe jamming at the start. Two bolt anchors are currently in excellent condition.
From: Knoxville, TN
Sep 15, 2013
Great route. Bolts are accessible from the top.