Smooth Operator 5.9+
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| Type: | Trad, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Rick Fairtrace, Scott Jones (Oct. 1985) |
| Submitted By: | DaveB on Sep 27, 2007 |
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BETA PHOTO: Smooth Operator (5.9+).
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Description Like fist jamming? If so, this route's for you. Ease into crack from right, commence jamming, and be ready to place gear (somewhat slick here). Beyond fistcrack (crux), work up to flaring pod utilizing generous horizontals and ledges. At large chockstone, move out left onto face and up left-leaning crack/flake. Layback and jam to top!
Location From Fern Point ladders, go left through corridor past Mellifluous, Freeky Stylee, Biohazard, Party All The Time. At the next corner/dihedral, look for a couple of fist and off-width cracks. (A ledge, halfway up the right crack, maintains a large stick bird's nest...with white sh*t streaks oozing down the rock.) Smooth Operator is the fist crack LEFT of this (see photo).
Protection Small-med-large. #4 Friends for initial fistcrack. Optional #5 and/or #6 Friend(s) for the top.
No anchors. (There should be for this quality route.)
Rap from tree with 60m rope.
BETA PHOTO: Leader's view from the start.
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Hutch on the super fun upper section of Smooth Ope...
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| Comments on Smooth Operator |
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By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 8, 2007
| This route is usually wet. If you find it dry, get on it, it's good! |
By C Runyan
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Sep 4, 2008
| Fun route that is nowhere near as burly as it looks from below. And no offwidth technique is required; you can leave the #5 and #6 behind.
I placed two #4 camalots (one low and one high). But I didn't bring a #6 and I didn't need the #5 I hauled up. I just dumped the #5 in the flake up high to get rid of the weight. |
By Alan Howell
May 31, 2012
| Good route. Nothing too awkward. Good pro. |
By Vicki Schwantes
From: Washington, DC
Jun 11, 2012
| Really great route, great moves and pro! It's currently holding our #4 cam hostage. If anyone happens to retrieve it and would like a 6 pack of beer or just new friends please message me! Ultimately, we just hope someone gets it out. It's a cool looking line, hate to clutter it up. |
By ShockSLL
From: Charlotte, NC
Jun 11, 2012
| That cam is stuck really good. Those bottom lobes don't seem to be moving at all. Your best bet is for a really cold day. |
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