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Stemming through the fun upper half of the route.
Like fist jamming? If so, this route's for you. Ease into crack from right, commence jamming, and be ready to place gear (somewhat slick here). Beyond fistcrack (crux), work up to flaring pod utilizing generous horizontals and ledges. At large chockstone, move out left onto face and up left-leaning crack/flake. Layback and jam to top!
From Fern Point ladders, go left through corridor past Mellifluous, Freeky Stylee, Biohazard, Party All The Time. At the next corner/dihedral, look for a couple of fist and off-width cracks. (A ledge, halfway up the right crack, maintains a large stick bird's nest...with white sh*t streaks oozing down the rock.) Smooth Operator is the fist crack LEFT of this (see photo).
Small-med-large. #4 Friends for initial fistcrack. Optional #5 and/or #6 Friend(s) for the top.
BETA PHOTO: Leader's view from the start.
BETA PHOTO: Smooth Operator (5.9+).
Hutch on the super fun upper section of Smooth Ope...
14yr old Matt fist jamming the start.
By Ed Wade
From: Hermann, MO
May 20, 2015
No need for anything larger than a #4 camalot. Two 4's are nice for the bottom half but the chimney, which is super easy, and the upper crack takes small to medium gear. Leave the offwidth gear in the pack. Also a long sling is ideal for the chockstone at the top of the chimney.