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Unsorted Routes:

Smoldering Horse Flesh 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Darryl Roth, Mark Van Horn
Page Views: 672
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Mar 13, 2010
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Smoldering Horse Flesh ascends the aesthetic prow....

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Description 

Smoldering Horse Flesh is your typical old-school Shelf Road sport climb: runout, burly & excellent. The climb is marred somewhat by the temptation to stem out right just above the crux, but if taken directly, this is one of the best lines at The Vault and worth every bit of the 12a grade.

Make moderate moves up the steep, dark slab, past a long runout to an easy stance in the obvious scoop. Get psyched for big, committing moves over the steep bulge. Thin pockets & sharp crimps head up the rounded prow, working left eventually to the anchor.


Location 

Ascends a hidden, inset buttress about 30 feet right of "Illusions", on the far left end of The Vault.


Protection 

6 bolts to 2 BA.



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By Darryl Roth
Apr 8, 2010

Just a historical comment... Mark and I put this up on an ass biting cold day. My hands were totally numb when I clipped the anchors. When they finally regained sensation, due to over-gripping, they were stinging like fire and really beat up.... Thus: "Smoldering Horse Flesh".

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Apr 19, 2010

Great story, Darryl! I knew there had to be a good story behind a name like that.