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Smoking Sections

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Lower Smoking Section 
Upper Smoking Section 

Smoking Sections  

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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Darren Mabe on Mar 1, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: Upper Smoking Section. Blue: Emphysema (10+) Gree...


If you want a warm-up to the weekend, or don’t have much time, check out the Smoking Section. This was a definite hot spot of the fire, hence the name. Almost a dozen short and scruffy one pitch outings are here, as well as a few hard slab and crack testpieces, such as Nooner.

Getting There 

See Sheeprock directions...

this little outcropping of routes, has a realitively short approach, that quite literally takes about one-cigarette's-time to get there from the car.

Quick'n'dirty route list 

Lower Smoking Section:

Route list starts from right to left. First ascents by Darren Mabe and various partners, 2004.

At the top of the cairned approach trail, locate an overhanging, right-facing, "shade" boulder and the obvious Nooner crack to the right.

  • **Nooner - 5.12 next to tall burned limbless tree trunk is a short finger crack to bolted anchor. Pro: small gear, one bolt.

  • *Little Doohah - 5.6 Climbs a slab above Nooner. Access it from the right up a ramp. Pro: a few bolts and pro for the timid.

  • *This Ain't Eldo - 5.11+ angling arch and underclings finishes with Nooner. TCUs, 2 bolts.

The following four routes all go to the same anchor at 110' with variations possible....

  • *Pink Lung - 9+ follows the pink bulge, turning the dark grey bulge. Bolts, a few small pieces.

  • **Carcinogen - 9 starts in crack system left of pink lung, up some slab and finshes with Pink or Nicotine. Pro: light SR, and bolts.

  • **Surgeon General - 5.10/11 all bolted direct start to finish on bulge of Nicotine.

  • ***Nicotine - 5.10 starts in angling handcrack, to finger crack, beelines to undercling bulge. Pro: SR and some bolts.

On the left side:

  • Smoker's Cough - 5.6 the wide right facing corner to bombay chimney, traversing to a stance with bolts (orange sling!?). Pro: SR, a few wide pieces. pretty damn-fun novelty pitch!

  • **Marlboro Man - 5.11+ follow the bolted arete and face left of Smoker's Cough. Tricky. 8 or 9 bolts.

Upper Smoking Section:

Up the hill to the left is a long sustained route called ***Emphysema, 5.10d/11a, and two pitch route called ***Sweet Cigarillo. Bring 70m or two ropes.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.2 miles from here

3 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Smoking Sections
Planning the first pitch.

Sweet Cigarillo 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  CO : South Platte : ... : Upper Smoking Section
A fun, classy and moderate 2 pitch outing up the center of the Upper Smoking Section Formation.P1. 5.8 120'. Wander up the slab on friction climbing past some interesting features. Use some shoulder length slings on the bolts in the middle of the pitch to alleviate some of the drag. Pull on to a ledge with two rap bolts by a small, pathetic, burned tree. However, move the belay left on the ledge/ramp to the base of a grunge filled crack. One bolt to supplement gear for a belay. I managed ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Smoking Sections Slideshow Add Photo
Upper Smoking Section
Upper Smoking Section
Detail of the upper section of Emphysema.  Ring bo...
BETA PHOTO: Detail of the upper section of Emphysema. Ring bo...
Lower Smoking Section.  L to R: Marlboro Man (ligh...
BETA PHOTO: Lower Smoking Section. L to R: Marlboro Man (ligh...

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