If you want a warm-up to the weekend, or donít have much time, check out the Smoking Section. This was a definite hot spot of the fire, hence the name. Almost a dozen short one pitch outings are here, as well as a few hard slab and crack testpieces, such as Nooner.
See Sheeprock directions...
this little outcropping of routes, has a realitively short approach, that quite literally takes about one-cigarette's-time to get there from the car.
Quick'n'dirty route list
Lower Smoking Section:
Route list starts from right to left. First ascents by Darren Mabe and various partners, 2004.
At the top of the cairned approach trail, locate an overhanging, right-facing, "shade" boulder and the obvious Nooner crack to the right.
- **Nooner - 5.12 next to tall burned limbless tree trunk is a short finger crack to bolted anchor. Pro: small gear, one bolt.
- *Little Doohah - 5.6 Climbs a slab above Nooner. Access it from the right up a ramp. Pro: a few bolts and pro for the timid.
- *This Ain't Eldo - 5.11+ angling arch and underclings finishes with Nooner. TCUs, 2 bolts.
The following four routes all go to the same anchor at 110' with variations possible....
- *Pink Lung - 9+ follows the pink bulge, turning the dark grey bulge. Bolts, a few small pieces.
- **Carcinogen - 9 starts in crack system left of pink lung, up some slab and finshes with Pink or Nicotine. Pro: light SR, and bolts.
- **Surgeon General - 5.10/11 all bolted direct start to finish on bulge of Nicotine.
- ***Nicotine - 5.10 starts in right angling handcrack, to finger crack, beelines to undercling bulge. Pro: SR and some bolts.
On the left side:
- Smoker's Cough - 5.6 the wide right facing corner to bombay chimney, traversing to a stance with bolts (orange sling!?). Pro: SR, a few wide pieces. pretty damn-fun novelty pitch!
- **Marlboro Man - 5.11+ follow the bolted arete and face left of Smoker's Cough. Tricky. 8 or 9 bolts.
Upper Smoking Section:
Up the hill to the left is a long sustained route called ***Emphysema, 5.10d/11a, and two pitch route called ***Sweet Cigarillo. Bring 70m or two ropes.
3 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
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BETA PHOTO: Detail of the upper section of Emphysema. Ring bo...
BETA PHOTO: Upper Smoking Section.
Blue: Emphysema (10+)
BETA PHOTO: Lower Smoking Section.
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Marlboro Man (ligh...
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