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Smoking Sections

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Lower Smoking Section 
Upper Smoking Section 

Smoking Sections  


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Darren Mabe on Mar 1, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: Upper Smoking Section. Blue: Emphysema (10+) Gree...

Description 

If you want a warm-up to the weekend, or donít have much time, check out the Smoking Section. This was a definite hot spot of the fire, hence the name. Almost a dozen short and scruffy one pitch outings are here, as well as a few hard slab and crack testpieces, such as Nooner.

Getting There 

See Sheeprock directions...

this little outcropping of routes, has a realitively short approach, that quite literally takes about one-cigarette's-time to get there from the car.

Quick'n'dirty route list 

Lower Smoking Section:

Route list starts from right to left. First ascents by Darren Mabe and various partners, 2004.

At the top of the cairned approach trail, locate an overhanging, right-facing, "shade" boulder and the obvious Nooner crack to the right.

  • **Nooner - 5.12 next to tall burned limbless tree trunk is a short finger crack to bolted anchor. Pro: small gear, one bolt.

  • *Little Doohah - 5.6 Climbs a slab above Nooner. Access it from the right up a ramp. Pro: a few bolts and pro for the timid.

  • *This Ain't Eldo - 5.11+ angling arch and underclings finishes with Nooner. TCUs, 2 bolts.

The following four routes all go to the same anchor at 110' with variations possible....

  • *Pink Lung - 9+ follows the pink bulge, turning the dark grey bulge. Bolts, a few small pieces.

  • **Carcinogen - 9 starts in crack system left of pink lung, up some slab and finshes with Pink or Nicotine. Pro: light SR, and bolts.

  • **Surgeon General - 5.10/11 all bolted direct start to finish on bulge of Nicotine.

  • ***Nicotine - 5.10 starts in angling handcrack, to finger crack, beelines to undercling bulge. Pro: SR and some bolts.

On the left side:

  • Smoker's Cough - 5.6 the wide right facing corner to bombay chimney, traversing to a stance with bolts (orange sling!?). Pro: SR, a few wide pieces. pretty damn-fun novelty pitch!

  • **Marlboro Man - 5.11+ follow the bolted arete and face left of Smoker's Cough. Tricky. 8 or 9 bolts.

Upper Smoking Section:

Up the hill to the left is a long sustained route called ***Emphysema, 5.10d/11a, and two pitch route called ***Sweet Cigarillo. Bring 70m or two ropes.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.2 miles from here

3 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


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Photos of Smoking Sections Slideshow Add Photo
Upper Smoking Section
Upper Smoking Section
Detail of the upper section of Emphysema.  Ring bo...
BETA PHOTO: Detail of the upper section of Emphysema. Ring bo...
Lower Smoking Section.  L to R: Marlboro Man (ligh...
BETA PHOTO: Lower Smoking Section. L to R: Marlboro Man (ligh...

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