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Smoking Drum 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Jeff Pederson
Page Views: 921
Submitted By: Blake Cash on Apr 5, 2010

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In critical habitat area for the Desert Tortoise

Description 

Grab a jug rail at the start of the roof and either campus out to a second jug rail or use some foot trickery then gain a right hand incut flake and do the crux which involves some crazy tension, toe hooking, and bad bad feet. From here comes a decent rest on a jug complex with ok feet...rest up because the next 20 feet involves sustained bouldery climbing with big moves to decent holds, although not as hard as the start crux. Finish up in a harder than it looks dihedral on weird facing holds and an off balance clip. Fight to the top and clip the chains. Now you can rest.


Location 

2nd tier of the black and tan on the far left steepest side. Starts on obvious chalked under cling jug.


Protection 

Bolts with fixed draws to the top. Stick clip the first fixed draw and put a draw on the lowest bolt for your belayer and a single biner on the 2nd bolt to keep the rope out of the way for the start.

Anchors at the top with biners.



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By Blake Cash
Apr 5, 2010

For the grade...probably the best route in the region.