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Smokestack 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Sport version -Ed Esmond 8/98, but found to have been previously lead trad by Tim Gotwells
Page Views: 4,164
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jul 26, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (47)
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Kayte deep in the layback crack.
Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A wakeup call for sporty sport climbers I'm sure... You will find all kinds of moves on this route that are hard to find elsewhere at Rumney... Thought provoking chimneys,and cracks, even a little off-width technique will come in handy... Most of the bolts are close together but there are a couple that might make someone shaky if they are used to Rumney's close bolts...

Start up the chimney, remember that using your feet well will help you conserve Energy for the strenuous moves at the top... As the chimney ends make moves left to a good stance and figure a way through a "boulder problem" where you have a few choices (i stay left) to another stance then run it out a little on easy ground to your next bolt and the final chimney/offwidth... Stem for a bit then get in to the squeeze chimney reaching back deep for holds and eventually laying back a few moves to a good hold at the top... Clip the chains and catch your breath...

There are many options as far as what moves and techniques you will use this is just my take on it...

It is sad that this route is very often wet...


Location 

The dark (often wet) chimney on the right side of the crag...


Protection 

9 bolts to anchor



Photos of Smokestack Slideshow Add Photo
great route, questionable beta
great route, questionable beta
Kayte climbing the lower half of the route.
Kayte climbing the lower half of the route.
Kayte Knower decides to chimney the layback part at the top.
Kayte Knower decides to chimney the layback part a...
tegan... yup the knee bars work up there... it gives you a good rest between all that pesky muscle flexing...
tegan... yup the knee bars work up there... it giv...
Tegan on what we call a "Rumney runout" when you actually end up above your bolt :O
Tegan on what we call a "Rumney runout" when you a...
What a great climb!
BETA PHOTO: What a great climb!
Comments on Smokestack Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 12, 2014
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 15, 2007

This was lead originally on gear by Tim Gotwells and called Cold Shoulder, then mostly left fallow for many years until unknowingly retroed by Esmond. It is now a quite popular route when dry. An excellent route for warming up before the harder routes as it uses your whole body. There are several ways to do the top, some more pretty than others! The anchors are right next to those of Strict Scrutiny 13d and Paradox.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Aug 20, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The best 5.9 at Rumney.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Aug 29, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I climbed this again today and I have to say that it was just as excellent as I remembered it. I made a pact with my belayer that from this day on, I will climb it to kick off the fall climbing season every year. She, unfortunately, did not buy in to the pact.

By Kayte Knower
Sep 2, 2008

I concur. The best 5.9 at Rumney. Definitely not your average sport climb.

By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Sep 4, 2008

Definitely deserves every star. This kind of climbing is pretty rare at a place like rumney.

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Mar 3, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Judging by the high praise for this route it will be one of the first routes I get on this spring... cant wait, you all got my interest going!

By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Mar 3, 2009

this.... looks..... SICK!!! im so pumped to get on this this spring! matt if you want a partner im here for ya! :)

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 3, 2009

Sorry mike this route stays wet for a long time in the spring... thats one reason it took me so long to get around to doing it... always wet...

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Mar 4, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

yeah mike we will def get out this spring and if this is a dry route we will have to tackle it

By Bjorn
From: Near Joshua Tree
May 25, 2009

My favorite 9 at Rumney. It's even better if you ignore the bolts and enjoy some perfectly G-rated rock climbing. It's a mystery to me why this was ever bolted. Defeats the whole character of the climb.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 25, 2009

I personally find it more enjoyable climbing it the way it is, and not with a full rack of giant cams swinging around and getting caught as I chimney up the bottom of the often wet start. I wouldn't advocating it being bolted if it was elsewhere, but there is something to be said for the fact that despite being on a very popular crag, the climb lay dormant for something like 25 years until Ed cleaned and bolted the thing. Now people have fun on it all the time.

By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Aug 2, 2009

Bill and I enjoyed climbing this route in the mid 80's

By Ming
Jul 2, 2012

No way I can squeeze in the chimney at the top! I had to do the layback move and it is pretty rad. Loved it!

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 21, 2012

Did this again today for the second time ever... yeah, its the best 5.9 at rumney... such a great climb!!!!!!!!!!
when this one is wet though (most of the time) Bbbutress is the the best 5.9 that is always dry :)

ps. i used 3 kneebars in the layback section....

By S. Neoh
Jul 21, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Lee, using knee-bars on this one is 'cheating'. You have long legs!
Really unusual sport route. Pumpy!!

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 21, 2012

knee bars are always "cheating" haha... but the knee beta worked fine for my much shorter friend too... so :P

By jdavis
From: New Hampshire
Sep 16, 2012

Did I overlook a bolt in the middle section? I only counted 8 to the anchor, and there was a pretty sizable runout on the easier ground after the first chimney.

By Mike C. Robinson
From: Rumney, NH
May 3, 2013

Best 9+ in Rumney! (with b b buttress being the best 5.9)
Tricky with some good trad like moves.

By Scott Brown
May 12, 2014

Climbed it yesterday! It was pretty wet at the bottom, but still ended up being a ton of fun!! Don't let the wetness deter you on a warm day! One of my favorite routes at Rumney so far!