|Fallen Idol /Face Dancer + Wave/Moss Cave
Smoke Shapes is an outstanding line of small pockets requiring strong fingers and technical precision. This is one of the better pocket-pulling test-pieces around, though it suffers from runoff and may require a thorough brushing prior to climbing. The tufa flowstone found here is some of the best in Lander, once its been cleaned. Expect 4-6 monos, depending on your sequence! Though certainly a power route, a good bit of endurance is needed to make it through the redpoint crux at the fourth bolt.
Stick clip at least the first bolt, then begin ~10 feet right on a sloping ramp that may host a small tower of cheater stones. A PDH jump start gets you in the mood for an unrelenting left-ward traverse along a fortuitous horizontal band of small pockets. Fancy footwork and extreme crosses lead to a precarious stance a bit left of the first bolt. Make a desperate move up to the obvious flake, where the route character shifts from burly to technical. Cerebral climbing and a set of obvious monos lead up the clean wall to a make or break move to reach the fourth bolt. With the send in the bag, cruise the entertaining headwall to the anchor.
7 bolts plus a directional ring-bolt in the back of the cave. 2 BA. Stick clip mandatory.
Furthest right route in the Moss Cave, climbing a smokey smooth gray streak
Sticking the redpoint crux of Smoke Shapes.
The jump start.
The techy headwall begins with a long crank to a m...
|By Jeremy Noring|
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
May 30, 2014
Matt Lund has the FA on this, not Todd Skinner.