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Fallen Idol /Face Dancer + Wave/Moss Cave
Routes Sorted
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Billie Idol (aka "Fallen Idol" p.2) S 
Blessed Saint Yabo S 
Confessions of a Mask S 
Diemos S 
Eros S 
Face Dancer S 
Fallen Idol S 
Fallen Idol (Pt I), The S 
Good Luck Mr. Gorsky S 
Kamiakin S 
MaskaBait S 
No More Heroes S 
Poagie Bait S 
Smoke Shapes S 
Travelling Menagerie, The S 
Winds of War S 

Smoke Shapes 

YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Todd Skinner
Page Views: 861
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Sep 23, 2008

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The end of the opening boulder problem--going for ...

Description 

Smoke Shapes is an outstanding line of small pockets requiring strong fingers and technical precision. This is one of the better pocket-pulling test-pieces around, though it suffers from runoff and may require a thorough brushing prior to climbing. The tufa flowstone found here is some of the best in Lander, once its been cleaned. Expect 4-6 monos, depending on your sequence! Though certainly a power route, a good bit of endurance is needed to make it through the redpoint crux at the fourth bolt.

Stick clip at least the first bolt, then begin ~10 feet right on a sloping ramp that may host a small tower of cheater stones. A PDH jump start gets you in the mood for an unrelenting left-ward traverse along a fortuitous horizontal band of small pockets. Fancy footwork and extreme crosses lead to a precarious stance a bit left of the first bolt. Make a desperate move up to the obvious flake, where the route character shifts from burly to technical. Cerebral climbing and a set of obvious monos lead up the clean wall to a make or break move to reach the fourth bolt. With the send in the bag, cruise the entertaining headwall to the anchor.

Protection 

7 bolts plus a directional ring-bolt in the back of the cave. 2 BA. Stick clip mandatory.

Location 

Furthest right route in the Moss Cave, climbing a smokey smooth gray streak


Photos of Smoke Shapes Slideshow Add Photo
Sticking the redpoint crux of Smoke Shapes.
Sticking the redpoint crux of Smoke Shapes.
The jump start.
The jump start.
The techy headwall begins with a long crank to a m...
The techy headwall begins with a long crank to a m...

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By Jeremy Noring
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
May 30, 2014

Matt Lund has the FA on this, not Todd Skinner.