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Fallen Idol /Face Dancer + Wave/Moss Cave
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Smoke Shapes 

YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Todd Skinner
Page Views: 961
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Sep 23, 2008

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The end of the opening boulder problem--going for ...


Smoke Shapes is an outstanding line of small pockets requiring strong fingers and technical precision. This is one of the better pocket-pulling test-pieces around, though it suffers from runoff and may require a thorough brushing prior to climbing. The tufa flowstone found here is some of the best in Lander, once its been cleaned. Expect 4-6 monos, depending on your sequence! Though certainly a power route, a good bit of endurance is needed to make it through the redpoint crux at the fourth bolt.

Stick clip at least the first bolt, then begin ~10 feet right on a sloping ramp that may host a small tower of cheater stones. A PDH jump start gets you in the mood for an unrelenting left-ward traverse along a fortuitous horizontal band of small pockets. Fancy footwork and extreme crosses lead to a precarious stance a bit left of the first bolt. Make a desperate move up to the obvious flake, where the route character shifts from burly to technical. Cerebral climbing and a set of obvious monos lead up the clean wall to a make or break move to reach the fourth bolt. With the send in the bag, cruise the entertaining headwall to the anchor.


7 bolts plus a directional ring-bolt in the back of the cave. 2 BA. Stick clip mandatory.


Furthest right route in the Moss Cave, climbing a smokey smooth gray streak

Photos of Smoke Shapes Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sticking the redpoint crux of Smoke Shapes.
Sticking the redpoint crux of Smoke Shapes.
Rock Climbing Photo: The jump start.
The jump start.
Rock Climbing Photo: The techy headwall begins with a long crank to a m...
The techy headwall begins with a long crank to a m...

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By Jeremy Noring
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
May 30, 2014

Matt Lund has the FA on this, not Todd Skinner.

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