Smoke On the Water 

Really curious who thought it would be a good idea to turn one of the best, steepest, 11's in the B'ham area into a 3-bolt 5.8. The first and third bolts were placed as retro-bolts last year without permission from the FA party. Weak Sauce, people. Not only that, you placed the third in a loose block. That's why it was not there in the first place. That, and that it's not needed if you're climbing 5.11. The route ends at chains on top of the cliff. I had replaced almost all the bolts, but had not finished. I will probably leave the mid-way anchor, so as to avoid a bolt war there (Matthias, do you care?), but you haven't done the route til you've clipped the top chains.

WTF? If this happened here in Durango, people would be quite irate. At least you folks could ask, if not me, the B'ham climbing community. Someone did this (added an anchor for the first "easy" part so as to have another "moderate" climb) to Blackbeard's Tears down at The Promontory in Northern California. Ah well...

Well, this is just about finished re-equipping. The former 3rd bolt in a loose block was removed (not by me). If someone wants to sling some static line through the pinch above the first anchor, that'd be fine with me. I haven't had time. As it stands, clip 2 bolts, then the lower anchor, then sling the pinch, commit to the undercling, clipping an awkward new 1/2x5" SS bolt (rock quality dictated the placement), to good shake, clip new 1/2x 2.75" SS, to the jug, one last bolt, then the sloping topout to the left and up. Fixe chains and rings on top.

Scott, you deserve a beer!

Dear SMassey, Mathias Holladay, and climbing community, I would like to apologize for turning the bottom half of smoke on the water into a 5.8. I did not intend to offend anyone rather I was trying to maximize the little rain sheltered climbing we have in w. WA. for the benefit of the whole climbing community. Due to the complaints I have removed all the bolts and chain that I placed on this route and filled the holes, returning it to it's former splendor.

Nelsonthad-
From my perspective, thank you for both the apology and fixing it. I appreciate your intention.
If you want to contribute positively to the climbing community, there are tons of garbage bolts at Mt. Erie and other places around WA that need to be replaced. If you're around during the summer, I can always use a hand. If not, I can put you in touch with folks that are replacing in the spring or fall.
cheers, scott

Yes, ditto on what Scott said and thanks for your post. I sincerely am glad you and others are frequenting Julia's Outcrop and enjoying those interesting moves. Post some more fotografs when you get a moment and if there's trail work cuz of erosion issues, help out there, perhaps...

B'hamsters! How's Julia's Outcrop? Have you done a link-up traverse from left to right of the entire cliff yet? Any new fotografs out there? Best,