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The Chimney
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Arrow Heads and Pitons T 
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Smoke on the Horizon 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 225'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: John Kear and Allan Aiken 2005
Page Views: 209
Submitted By: John Kear on Sep 4, 2010

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Description 

Two pitch route on the NW corner of the Chimney. I wanted to put this route on the site so folks know where the route goes and to identify the mystery bolts some might see if the wonder over onto this side of the Chimney.
Pitch 1 Climbs a right facing corner, this pitch is clean and moderate leading to a stance/belay right on the NW corner of the formation. I'm sure this pitch had been climbed before. 5.8
Pitch 2 Leads up and diagonally right off the belay following seams and flakes up to a short left facing corner. Turn the corner around to the right and into a steep tips crack/corner system. Pull a mantle onto the steep slab above (crux). A couple of bolts protect this section. After the crux you can wonder up and left which eventually joins the North facing routes or work your way up and right climbing fairly licheny 5.10 rock to eventually gain the summit directly. This pitch is fairly long, about 150ft and 5.11.


Location 

The route climbs just right of the NW arete of the Chimney. Find the start around the west side of the formation in a clean right facing corner.
For the descent we brought two ropes and rappelled the SW face from the common anchor found on the ledge on the east side of the tower. One has to down-climb off the summit to the ledge. Then rappel in whatever direction you choose.


Protection 

Sandia rack with doubles in the .33 to 1.5 inch range. 2 bolts on the 2nd pitch. No anchors at the top, although it would be a great idea for some to be installed.



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