Smoke for Face
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|Type: ||Trad, Sport, Alpine, 3 pitches, 300 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.11a [details]|
|FA: ||Dwight Kroll|
|Season: ||Spring to Fall|
|Submitted By: ||Grover on Nov 28, 2011|
Following the last pitch of Smoke for Face
This is a great slab route, probably the best one on Voyager Rock?
If you think you got what it takes to climb 11a slab this is a great testpeice.
1st Pitch: Sustained 10+ slab, 8 bolts to a 3 bolt anchor. AWESOME!
Start from a small pine tree up on a ledge.
From the pine tree head up and right to a flake traverse the flake back left to gain another ledge just below your first bolt. The small ledge is 15ft above the small pine.
From the ledge pull onto a slanting rail/flake that you can protect with small nuts, and clip the first bolt.
Its all slab from here to the summit, A preaty straight forward route, just find the path of least resistance to the next bolt.
The crux: A very thin 11a section between the 2nd and 3rd bolts, Friction moves on dime edges, OH YA!
2nd Pitch: Sustained 10a slab, 8 bolts to a 3 bolt anchor. SICK!
The Bolts on this pitch are more spread out, but the climbing is easier.
This pitch is a Super Rad sustained 10a slab as good as it gets. A Mind blowing foot to hand match on a small knob was super cool.
3rd Pitch: One bolt protects this pitch. DONT BE SCARED!
From the anchor at the top of pitch 2 look up and left and you will see a bolt about 30 feet away.
It is 5.9 climbing to this bolt. If you have made it this far it should'nt be a problem.
If you dont want to run it out to the bolt you can climb straight up 15ft to a flake, stick a good #1 camalot in, back it up with a smaller cam if you want, put runners on them and traverse left and up to the bolt.
After you clip the bolt there is another 25ft of easy slab that brings you to the top of Voyager Rock. Set up a trad anchor and bring your partner up. Walk off south ridge.
This route is on Voyager Rock's south east side.
When you get to the base of Voyager Rock head north along the top of a slab. The slab below you gets steeper the further you head north along the base.
At this point you are just past the middle of the Voyager Rock's east side. and to the right of a huge prominate right facing dihedral that arches to a roof high up on Voyager Rock.
Start looking for a small pine tree about 60ft up to the right on a ledge. Scramble up and right on broken up ledges with bushes untill your just below the small pine tree.
I reccomend roping up to get to the pine tree, you can protect this short bit with cams in horizontal cracks - 20ft of climbing.
Descent: If you top out "Smoke for Face" walk off the southern ridge.
A 60m rope works for top roping the first pitch.
If you want to bail from the top of the 2nd pitch bring a 70m rope, or a second 60m rope, im not sure if you could make it to the first pitch anchor using one 60m rope?
10 quick draws, some should be half length slings.
A set of nuts, small ones for 1st pitch
.4 to #1 camalot - 4 cams
2 full length slings for anchors
Voyager Rock, Huge dihedral at the top of the roc...
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 3: Pro is behind the flake straight up from ...
Nice view of the Res. From the top of Voyager Rock