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Smoke Filled Rooms 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Billy Smallen, Grug, Herb Crimp, July 2008
New Route: Yes
Season: Morning sun, Afternoon shade
Page Views: 963
Submitted By: Billy Smallen on Jul 27, 2008

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Smoke Filled Rooms follows the crack at right of t...

Description 

This is a fun and super varied route! Start off either straight below the crack on big rails (5.10a-ish) or over left in the depression of the ledge (5.10d-ish) and then walk into the crack. Get a couple pieces (#1 Camalot in the corner, #0.75 Camalot a move above in the first pod). Pull on the corner finger crack and get a stemming rest on the ledge. Transfer into the main crack and climb up clipping the bolt right before the crux sequence. Face climb above the bolt either pulling into the bottoming crack (harder) or stemming and face climbing straight up. Get a hand hold higher than the anchors to make the clip, poor rock above limited my anchor placement options.

Location 

This route is right (upriver) about 150ft from the far right side of Schoolroom #1 one climb right of ‘Midnight Frightening'. The straight up start begins behind a bush on a large slopping gold colored ledge below a very varnished wall, a bolt is visible about 8ft down and left of the anchors.

Protection 

1 each 0.3 Camalot to 2 Camalot, 1 bolt. It is possible to place a Red/Yellow Hybrid Alien (or maybe just a red alien) and a large micro stopper in the last pod before the bolt. It is also possible (but probably to hard to be worth it) to place a large stopper a couple moves above the bolt.


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