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Black Widow Slab
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Bands of Gold 
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F**k You 
Far Right, The 
Fire Down Below, The 
Kate Moss 
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Right Side 
Right Side? aka Bong Session 
Smoke Down 

Smoke Down 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Steve Sangdahl, John Baldwin, Tom Englebach, 1996
Page Views: 775
Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on Jul 8, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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The crux. You can either layback all the way up or...
Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>


Decent climbing, but short. As Rolofson says, "Don't be fooled", it's much harder than it looks. Angle left past the first bolt and mantle onto a ledge. Move left around the arete and up to the roof. At this point you are just right of Wired which escapes out left around the roof. Layback the right side of the roof, crux, via one of at least two methods.

This felt much harder to everyone in our group of 3 than either Consilience or Gyromancy which we had done clean earlier in the day. We all fell and hung several times on Smoke Down. Perhaps it's not technically harder, but it's harder to do clean due to the steepness and treachery of the layback.


On the right side of Black Widow where the rock becomes really grungy. Just right of Wired, a right-facing, right leaning trad corner capped by a roof.


5 bolts, 2-bolt anchor with rings.

Photos of Smoke Down Slideshow Add Photo
Climbing past the first bolt is treacherous.
Climbing past the first bolt is treacherous.
Stepping up to the crux roof. The corner to the left of Luke is Wired.
Stepping up to the crux roof. The corner to the le...
Move left around the arete and balance up to the roof.
Move left around the arete and balance up to the r...
"Barn door" crux.
"Barn door" crux.
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By Brent Apgar
From: Out of the Loop
Jul 5, 2009

I'm not sure that this is a full three star route, but it's certainly worth doing. It's very engaging for how short it is.

By slim
Sep 19, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

I thought this was a really nice little route. Good variety, and the top looks a little bit intimidating - but it unfolds perfectly.