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Smoke Big Doobs, Suck Big Boobs 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Jason Keith
Page Views: 3,706
Submitted By: Kole DeCou on Aug 23, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Nick S. in the fingers/stemming section during his...

Description 

Another nice pumpy crack climb. Your experience on this climb will depend on the length of your legs and the size of your hands. (Big hands and short legs would be a bad combination.)

Location 

Hard to describe without a picture. Starts under a small roof about 30' right of the pinnacle.

Protection 

Coubles to #3 Camalot, with 3 #0.75's and 3 #1s.


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By dsmit
From: Flagstaff, Az
Nov 5, 2012

Super cool, the only detraction is the chossy start. Thin hands stemming warms you up for the final fingers stem box. Be sure to save some yellow/orange met. for the end. The name alone gives this three stars!
By Tim Heid
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Jun 17, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

The starting area is identified by a small flat 3’ x 2’ boulder sitting alone at the base. The route goes up the chossy hand crack to a small roof. Pull the roof on the left hand side and enjoy the great stemming & jamming to the top.

Suggested rack is on with the 3x .75-1’s, but I’d drop the 3’s(or maybe only bring one). The only place you’d use it is low and there’s lots of options. Don’t forget to bring a few tips and finger sized cams for the section above the roof.

It doesn’t look like much from the ground, but once you pull the low roof it becomes great fun all the way to the chains.