Smoke a Fatty  5.11- V2

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Type:  Trad, TR, Boulder, 20 feet Consensus:  5.10c V1+ [details] FA:  Dave and Chris Bell, mid 1970s? Submitted By:  Jason Kaplan on Aug 31, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

It's the fatty on the right obviously.

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Description 

This is a short but powerful dihedral crack that is an OW. Vertical if not slightly overhung. Starts as fists, if I remember right, then goes to wide fists and armbars at the crux (near the top out), stem out to the thin crack at the crux with your left foot.

I lead it on gear last summer trying to find A-hole rock. It's pretty stout for sure.

Location 

Continue down 550 past de Gaulles Nose for a while, there is a large parking area that is surrounded by cable on your right (close to the Gnome Dome), park there. Follow the bike trail across the street up towards A-hole rock (stay left at the split and you will pass some rocks on your left shortly which have maybe 2-3 boulderable cracks), you will eventually make out a super faint clearing just off the trail to your right (a bit further down the trail) that was actually once an old road, follow it up the hill to the ridge line. Follow the ridge until you find the boulder pictured the problem faces A-hole, so you won't see it at first just check all the boulders on the ridge if you can't figure it out. It's maybe 1/3 to 1/2 way to A-hole rock.

Protection 

Large cams mostly, you can use some smaller stuff for the anchor up top. Doubles in the #3-5 Camalot range would be useful, don't remember if I used my #6 or not but maybe bring it just in case. If you plan to boulder this thing, bring about 5 pads or maybe more, as there are a few large rocks in the landing and a fire ring as well.

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