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 ADVANCED
Kermits Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Centerfold T,TR 
Cranial Prophylactic T 
Kermit's Direct Finish T 
Kermit's Direct Start T,TR 
Kermit's Wad S,TR 
Lend Me a Dime S 
Lime Line Variation T 
Paranoia Streak T 
Punany S 
Revenge of the Nerds S 
Smitty's Wet Dream T 

Smitty's Wet Dream 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Miller and Jarvis '80
Page Views: 3,165
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Apr 3, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (74)
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Mark climbing near the bolt on the slick slab, Smi...

Description 

Smitty's Wet Dream is reached by following the approach to the Perhaps wall, and then following the wall downhill. Pass Cranial Prophylactic, and continue to the next crack system to the left.

Start up a small slab, heading into a very thin steep dihedral (Lime Line Variation 5.10d). Don't climb the dihedral, instead finger traverse left on a flake/crack. Once on the left face, climb up a short finger crack to a slab with a bolt. Clip this and head slightly right into a thin right facing dihedral. Follow this to the anchors, getting great face holds up higher.

Either rap with one rope (Cranial Prophylactic's anchors), or do CP's second pitch.

Protection 

Very small gear and one bolt in the slab. A TR is also possible after climbing Cranial Prophylactic.


Photos of Smitty's Wet Dream Slideshow Add Photo
Watching short people climb is really amazing!
Watching short people climb is really amazing!
1) Punany  2)  Centerfold  3)  Smitty's Wet Dream  4) Limeline Variation
BETA PHOTO: 1) Punany 2) Centerfold 3) Smitty's Wet Dream ...
Centerfold and surroundings w/o lines
BETA PHOTO: Centerfold and surroundings w/o lines
Jake Werner on top rope
Jake Werner on top rope
Mark on the thin dihedral crux of Smitty's Wet Dream.
Mark on the thin dihedral crux of Smitty's Wet Dre...
Mike Kurilich starting up Smitty's
Mike Kurilich starting up Smitty's
Chris working through the crux.
Chris working through the crux.
Draw
Draw
Fun climb..bring the small stuff!
Fun climb..bring the small stuff!
Kevin Brown cruising the crux
Kevin Brown cruising the crux

Comments on Smitty's Wet Dream Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nathan Fisher
Aug 29, 2004

Pretty consistent climb. Fun little 5.9 move. Bring your small stuff for this route.
By Timmy Fearn
Mar 18, 2007

Hmm... I see... the route is a thin dihedral, I cruised the arete for most of the way thinking it seemed harder than 5.9 and wondering why there was a 30 foot runout above that bolt. Can't wait to try it again the right way. Good climb none the less!
By Texaswall
From: The Woodlands, TX
May 20, 2008

Led Cranial Pro today and found it an easy 5.8 and disappointingly discontinuous and short. Decided to TR Smitty's and was grateful. I'm 99% certain I did Smitty's proper and think it would have been tough to get pro in from the bolt to the steep but easier face below the anchors. Hard 5.9 and hard to protect.
By Tyler King
From: Salt Lake, UT
Oct 7, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I just did this route and it is not difficult to protect. Just be sure to bring your small TCU's and micro's.

Great Thin Route!!!
By Woodson
From: Park City, Ut.
Jun 12, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A great consistent route. I had heady mental moments with some moves on this route, but it's all there. Bring micro and other small nuts, and I got a .75 camalot in below the crux. I actually had a harder time down by the bolt, and you have to be thoughtful along most of the route.
By Alec
Nov 27, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Really interesting route. Sustained, bizarre moves, just enough gear. The jug haul up top is a joy
By ddriver
From: SLC
Oct 22, 2012

"Either rap with one rope (Cranial Prophylactic's anchors), or do CP's second pitch."

If you don't already know, this would be your clue that this is not a 160' pitch.
By Mr. Hummus
From: SLC, Utah
Nov 5, 2012

Although none of the moves were very hard, this route was a head game for me. Maybe I am just not a slab climber, but I found the crux to be getting gear in the tiny crack between the bolt and the steep section. I was actually relieved to get to the steeps and make some bigger moves on vertical rock. Good route though. Be sure to bring your nuts. I don't think I've ever placed so many nuts on a route.
By Sam Cannon
From: Holladay, Utah
May 13, 2013

I really, really enjoyed this route. I'm currently working through all the 9's in the canyon and have done nearly all the classics, and I felt (having recently done a lot of the good ones) this deserved to be in the pantheon of must-do LCC 9's and 9+'s.

Really fun, varied moves. Different than anything I've climbed. Brassies are clutch for the thin dihedral placements.